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New Kids on the Block – Day three of this season two of exclusive ‘Casting Call Diaries’ series for The Fashionisto took me from Givenchy to Jil Sander via Cerruti 1881 and Issey Miyake … The sun was back and the guys in a good mood, perfect conditions to snap several established names (Lowell Tautchin, Jakob Wiechmann, Isaac Carew, Linus Gustin, Philip Huang, RJ King, Lucas Mascarini, Adrien Brunier, etc.), but also tons of young blood (Kim Kraglund, Benjamin Eidem, Frederik Tölke, Simon Van Meervenne, Dorian Jespers, etc.) and newcomers to watch such as Arthur, Simon Sabbah, Wilson, Leo Tileman, Dimitris Alexandrou, Maxim Popov, Raf Cross, Ollie Mann, Noud Egberts or Jordan Burman to name only a few … Highlights of the day : Mark Westinghouse going wall-climbing for me and Maïda Grégory-Boïna allowing me to document her casting for Jil Sander right from the inside; they deserve a special mention … look out for the next episode !
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Boys, Boys, Boys–For my second day of this new exclusive ‘Casting Call Diaries’ series for The Fashionisto, I chased models across Paris from Haussmann buildings by the Chicissime Avenue Montaigne and Avenue de L’Opéra to some more industrial photo studios in more popular districts; out of a slightly ambitious program of eight castings I managed to cover six : Dior Homme, Mugler, Louis Vuitton, Arnys, Yohji Yamamoto and Alexis Mabille … This journey proved to be pretty intense behind the camera due to the amount of models who would never miss giving it a chance at castings for such major shows even if they have to carry an umbrella, but granted me to pin to my list of daily trophies the likes of Yuri Pleskun, rising star Bapstiste Radufe, Nicolas Ripoll, Matvey Lykov, Douglas Neitzke, Lyle Lodwick, Corey Baptiste, Paul Boche, Victor Nylander, Alexander Johansson, Juan Manuel Arancibia, Alexander Beck, Julien Chanca etc, some newer faces such as Andrea Bellisario, Timmi Radicke, Julius Gerhardt, Jay or Noma Han for instance and even the freshest first timers you can imagine : Justus Eisfeld (who doesn’t even have a paris agency yet) or Isaac Ekblad (who came to Paris to visit his family and was only discovered today by an agency scout as he was walking in the street !) … Also snapped were designers Romain Kremer (Mugler) and Alexis Mabille … check this space for more to come very soon !
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Models in Paris–The new season is nearly here again and you know Paris Fashion Week is looming because all the boys are back in town for castings before heading to Milan and coming back to Paris for the shows … So here kicks off the second season of an exclusive ‘Casting Call Diaries’ story at the men’s Paris Fashion Week castings for The Fashionisto ! For this first day of model ‘hunting’, the targets included the castings for John Lawrence Sullivan, Balenciaga and Damir Doma … Walking between the different casting places in pretty miserable winter rainy weather didn’t actually prove to be as enjoyable as my first experience in that matter last June, but with luck and patience I finally ended up catching some very relevant preys who regularly grace the international runways and magazines such as Jacob Coupe, Dan Kling, River Viiperi, Sebastian Sauve, Harry Goodwins, Adrian Cardoso, David Agbodji, Joan Pedrola etc, along with new faces Dominic Nutt, Miguel Batista, John Tuite, Andras Kajari or Jake Shortall amongst others … To be continued …
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An Opera for a New World–Day one of the thirty-seventh Modalisboa edition placed under the theme of transfusion kicked off with the new blood of Lusitanian designers Os Burgueses, showing as part of lab, the platform for the youngest talents. Launched in 2009 by Pedro Eleutério and Mia Lourenço, the new label showcased a spring/summer 2012 collection inspired by heritage as well as freedom, which also included a couple of men’s silhouettes … a very light palette of white, grey and pale pink for casual clothes with a twist in twill, jersey, cambric or leather … relaxed new tailoring, draped bermudas, sleeveless jumpsuit shorts … the silhouette was fresh and clean, this season’s inevitable checks were present and zips everywhere …
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Nothing is as Certain as Uncertainty–For Modalisboa #37, long-time regular of the Portuguese fashion week, Alexandra Moura presented a spring/summer 2012 collection entitled The Uncertainty Principle inspired by a book, a compilation of animal illustrations organized in such a way so that one can shape one’s own combinations amongst them and create the most extraordinary, unique and sometimes surreal creatures … following this concept, the collection takes life from a mix of ideas, reference, time periods, art movements … A strong geometrical statement is created through the assembly of materials – cotton, silk, vinyl, jersey, crepe, cool wool – and colors – putty, green, pink, black, white, orange … straight lines contrast with volumes … color blocks oppose to stripes … ruffled bermudas resemble skirts and are sometimes paired with matching trousers, shirts are punched to look as if in polka dots, vinyl tops take on poplin bottoms … accessorized with sling-back brogues and surrealistic sunglasses, rounding out the lineup with a loose silhouette that is young and comfortable.
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