Wiener Models Martin Pichler, Bernhard Schabernig and
Bernhard Göth photographed by Susanne Spiel

Phillip Lim’s showing of ten looks from his fall 2009 menswear collection during New York Fashion Week presented the image of a Lim devotee who was maturing and relying less on boyish charm and more on edge. However, the full range as presented in the lookbook offers quite a different picture. Lim’s signature small boxy cut is in plain sight and oddly enough, the relaxed collection looks younger than usual. Less focused than the runway show, the varied mix of pieces overshadow the collection’s leather and studs emphasizing a free flowing aesthetic with no guidelines. Less structured, sheer tops and knitted bottoms play to the collection’s casual element, while suiting does not deviate from typical Lim style. As per usual, Lim’s collection offers several great pieces, especially in regards to knits and outerwear. However, the fall season does see an apparent tension between Lim’s signature traits and a need to evolve with some form of spontaneity.

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Following Tom Becker’s departure in April, Josh Sparks has been tapped as the new president and chief executive officer of Thom Browne. Sparks aims to lower Browne’s entry-level price points by 20-30% in order to make the label more accessible to the consumer and expand its presence in stores from the current total of 45 to hopefully 150 to 200 over the next three years. With new investments from Japan-based manufacturer and retailer, Cross Company, this plan is possible. (WWD)

When it comes to young independent labels like The Local Firm, it is always refreshing to see the creative freedom and room for individual space. Less serious and with far less scrutiny than large fashion houses, there is room for more risks and often a better understanding. Approaching each season with the noble intention to translate art and architecture into functional design, The Local Firm is responsible for bringing forth fashion-forward pieces of an eclectic nature that simply put, beg to be worn. Their latest collection was an extension of this idea. Bringing together an array of accessible garments, pieces were turned out that remain comfortably in line with next season’s trends–sheer cardigans, oversize coats, relaxed denim, and loose slinky knits. If course, these pieces had their own detailing to make the unique to The Local Firm, whether it was adorned denim or bolero cut tops. Finally–with a couple snips, oxfords were transformed into edgy sandals that best round out the collection’s dissected personality.

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Gradients, ombre, and dip-dyed fabrics popped up quite a bit this spring in menswear. These eye-catching prints can add depth, texture, and contrast, giving visual interest to any outfit. I love the depth created in the Adam Spagnolo shirt above, as it fades from a pristine white to black. The spring sales are in full swing it’s a great time to pick up some stunning pieces that reflect this trend. Happy shopping!

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Gordon Bothe photographed by Pierpaolo Ferrari for Allegri’s
fall 2009 campaign (I Love Models Management)

The Kitsuné man is neat, confident and well-mannered. Next season is no different. For spring 2010, the French label took to a neutral color palette for their usual affair of smart, but easygoing basics. Double breasted jackets and fitted khakis provide a timeless look, while small lapels and relaxed jackets bring the collection current. Coordinating pieces offer uniformity, while emblem adorned cardigans, polos and jackets result in Kitsuné’s tongue-in-cheek approach to scholarly fashion.

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Known for their dramatic flair, Berlin-based label BUTTERFLYSOULFIRE preview their spring 2010 collection titled “Underneath From Above” with a short film directed by Steffen Seeger.

Rebellious and going against the grain, Cheap Monday is in a world of their own. Crafting a modern version of grunge, the collection brought forth unisex-driven fashions that included everything from denim cutoffs and frayed shirts to bleached denim. Fashionably disheveled, the styling provides the season with a certain sense of excitement. Avoiding the confining nature of suiting, Cheap Monday offers a younger demographic tools for fun, in the moment fashion. This mood was best captured by the collection’s core assortment of cuffed shorts, taped leggings and cut-out boots. At times, the collection’s overall look can be a little much, but at the end of the day, it is refreshing to take note of Cheap Monday’s youthful spirit as seen in the exploration of various garment pairings and gender appropriateness.

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