Denmark-based Won Hundred is the prime example of a label who approaches traditional menswear with an infectious charisma that results in sophisticated progressions that provide options without overindulgence. Taking to subtle shifts in details and proportions, designer Nikolaj Nielsen works tirelessly to update staples, while balancing a notion of accessibility with what is current. For fall 2009, Won Hundred’s signature aesthetic continues to get more relaxed. By letting out jackets and trousers, the collection becomes more free flowing with a worker’s vibe. The proportions are slightly oversize on outerwear, but kept within the realms of practicality. From the boxy wool coat to the slouchy cardigan, the range offers clothes that are timeless. The collection overall is the extension of any solid wardrobe–it’s safe, comforting and there for all occasions.

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Blaine Cook styled by Shun Watanabe and photographed by David Benjamin Sherry

Collin T photographed by Greg Vaughan

Joseph R photographed by Jamie Luca

PETROU\MAN is the creation of Nicolas Petrou, an MA graduate from St. Martin’s School in London. Creating his debut collection, Petrou looked to no other than American designer Geoffrey Beene. Moved by an illustration Sirichai completed for Geoffrey Beene during spring 2001, Petrou began looking at the makeup of active sportswear. Paying close attention to the attributes that make sportswear comfortable, Petrou sought to blend them with classics for a modern relaxed collection with personality. This resulted in a deconstructed mix of patterns, mesh and a reinterpretation of the classic jacket. Giving jackets a new look, proportions shifted as the length became shorter and the sleeves more narrow. Meanwhile sequin adornments lend the collection a touch of glamor. Making for a special touch, Petrou completed the season’s lookbook by incorporating background images that represent everyday life: “weather, science, money, traveling, politics and general issues. [He] wanted to put the PETROU\MAN into an everyday environment but in a more artistic and abstract way.”

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Raf Simons, Maison Martin Margiela

Oki-ni has received new arrivals from Raf Simons and additional pieces from Maison Martin Margiela. Simons’ fondness for unorthodox shapes is no surprise, but the leather jacket with striping from Maison Martin Margiela is absolutely stunning. The jacket is “part of the ‘Stripes in Bias’ theme of the Avant Premiere collection.”