Phillip Lim’s showing of ten looks from his fall 2009 menswear collection during New York Fashion Week presented the image of a Lim devotee who was maturing and relying less on boyish charm and more on edge. However, the full range as presented in the lookbook offers quite a different picture. Lim’s signature small boxy cut is in plain sight and oddly enough, the relaxed collection looks younger than usual. Less focused than the runway show, the varied mix of pieces overshadow the collection’s leather and studs emphasizing a free flowing aesthetic with no guidelines. Less structured, sheer tops and knitted bottoms play to the collection’s casual element, while suiting does not deviate from typical Lim style. As per usual, Lim’s collection offers several great pieces, especially in regards to knits and outerwear. However, the fall season does see an apparent tension between Lim’s signature traits and a need to evolve with some form of spontaneity.

Pictures from Phillip Lim