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Effectively putting his boyish charm to rest, Phillip Lim took his men on a wild ride through the city for the upcoming season. With hair slicked back and strapped boots in toll, Lim’s vision of the city involved bulky coats cinched at the waist and paired with semi-slim silhouettes. Using leather once more to lend his range an edge, Lim looked to monochromatic numbers to navigate the city. However, it was the collection’s tonal checks that made the most significant impact. Based in browns, but graphically strong, Lim’s checks immediately registered as a key symbol of the season. Altogether conservative, but slightly exaggerated proportion-wise, Phillip Lim’s fall outing steers the line in a more market-friendly direction that should boast well for the designer.
The post-war beatnik serves as inspiration for Phillip Lim’s latest collection. Approaching the season with a light casualness, a well-rounded second look at Lim’s spring range shows an effortless progression of refined yet accessible separates. From the loose-fitting drawstring waistbands and oversize tops to comfortable suiting, Lim manages to give his signature proportions a new refreshing lease on life.
Fragrance line Six Scents returns for a second series featuring Phillip Lim, Damir Doma, Henrik Vibskov, Henry Holland, Richard Nicoll and Toga. Once more, the collaborative project between Metaproject, Seven New York and Givaudan will be limited in number–2,000 to be precise. A percentage of proceeds will be going to Pro-Natura in support of their environmental sustainability programs.
Collage 3.1 Phillip Lim & Natalie Gracia-Cetto
Phillip Lim turned to post-war beatniks as the inspiration for his spring collection. Showing menswear alone for the first time and hoping to appeal to a new audience, Lim decided to travel the road of casualness. Accepting of a world where trousers and suiting shorts can co-exist with more relaxed pieces like his oversize knits, Lim leaned further away from his boxy boyish cuts in favor of more realistic silhouettes. The evolution of the Phillip Lim man is accompanied by a quiet sophistication that takes into account the modes of life, while still leaving room for luxury in the form of innovative footwear and finally–a gentleman’s approach to leather.
This Friday, Phillip Lim will stage his first standalone menswear show. Explaining his decision to separate menswear from being shown with the womenswear, he explained “The women’s would snowball and kill everything in its way, so the men’s story wouldn’t get told. It was too chopped up. But the men’s collection is finally where I want it to be, so it’s time to show it. It’s time to stop ignoring half the world’s population.” (WWD)
Phillip Lim’s showing of ten looks from his fall 2009 menswear collection during New York Fashion Week presented the image of a Lim devotee who was maturing and relying less on boyish charm and more on edge. However, the full range as presented in the lookbook offers quite a different picture. Lim’s signature small boxy cut is in plain sight and oddly enough, the relaxed collection looks younger than usual. Less focused than the runway show, the varied mix of pieces overshadow the collection’s leather and studs emphasizing a free flowing aesthetic with no guidelines. Less structured, sheer tops and knitted bottoms play to the collection’s casual element, while suiting does not deviate from typical Lim style. As per usual, Lim’s collection offers several great pieces, especially in regards to knits and outerwear. However, the fall season does see an apparent tension between Lim’s signature traits and a need to evolve with some form of spontaneity.
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