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Once more, the man of Ann Demeulemeester is that tortured yet beautiful soul that lends itself best to her darkest seasons. Predominantly black with moments of earthy variation, Demeulemeester’s latest collection looks to controlled volume and texture for direction. While high waist tapered trousers are this season’s prevalent fixture, a light layering of the Demeulemeester essentials, paired with cowl necks and a demonstrated understanding of draping make quite the lasting impression. From a return to tonal stripes and the taming of leather to a luxe feather statement, Ann Demeulemeester crafts yet another potent collection.
Axel Miraton gets comfortable in fall’s romantic collection from Ann Demeulemeester. Styled by Tomoki Sukezane and photographed by Junji Hata for the December issue of SOTOKOTO, Axel demonstrates a subtle confidence that resonates perfectly with the collection’s poetic aspirations.
Flowers have always had a place, no matter how limited in menswear. Whether it be though prints or more commonly as lapel accessories, they seemingly fall in and out of popularity. Recently, the oversize flower attached to a man’s chest in the last Maison Martin Margiela collection sparked memories of particularly striking floral brooches that have sprouted over the last year or so.
Not to be overshadowed by the runways of Milan and Paris, here is a late look at Erik Madigan Heck’s editorial tribute to Ann Demeulemeester. Chronicling Demeulemeester’s romantic approach to outfitting men, Heck pulled pieces spanning her menswear collections from 1996 to 2009. Inspired by William Golding’s Lord of the Flies and Italian photographer Mario Giocomelli’s photography of young priests at play, Heck captures a throng of young men in the moment of merriment with the importance being placed on their interactions. Heck’s editorial can be seen in the latest issue of Nomenus Quarterly which just so happens to be limited to ten copies and priced at $6,500–OUCH!
A vision in black, cream and white, the latest collection from Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester veered from her previous season’s courting of the romantic poet to a modern urban setting. Using great amounts of leather, Demeulemeester puts the edge back in her designs, although the collection’s airy split-hem robes do have a sensitive zen quality to them. Halter-top waistcoats make a sharp impression, while a reworked cummerbund belt from fall 2009 makes a pleasant appearance. From the knits’ subtle sequin embellishments to the high profile sneakers, luster and sheen become a welcomed attribute of the collection, while headbands and hooded outerwear add a modern charm, while still adhering to Ann Demeuelmeester’s favored aesthetic. Like all her previous collections, Demeulemeester “cuts soul” into her garments, creating with a purpose–not only new garments to fill a void, but garments with significance and a story important to their wearer.
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