Hugo by Hugo Boss, Francisco van Benthum, Juun J.,
Dries van Noten, Julius and Henrik Vibskov in photo report
Kindly,
Martin Kullik
Dries Van Noten sent a graphic parade down the runway earlier today with detailed piping and larger than life prints making quite the statement. Riding an influx of color and excitement, Dries Van Noten interjected men’s suiting with great personality. From dressed down sweats-styled trousers and bold electric blue separates to contrasting inserts, Van Noten’s man proved to be the life of the party. Bridging the gap between modest and playful, the collection executed a well-balanced turn at a personable collection for the man of all occasions.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2010
Taking to the international stage to debut his spring 2010 collection, it is rather fitting that Dries Van Noten’s latest vision encompasses the convergence of East and West design motifs. Relaxed silhouettes matched with an eclectic mix of exotic prints made for an enchanting engagement. Ingeniously, a variety of color was used, while also demonstrating restraint–maintaining practicality for everyday use. Proving that the suit can be more than just moody or serious, its structure was broken down for a casual relaxed fit that was simply tied in at the waist. Pleated trousers were in full effect, but what really stole the show were the collection’s baggier loose-slung trousers that provided a refreshing break from today’s typical slim silhouette. Offering finished options, batiks dressed iridescent materials, while patterned oxfords held their own among low-key sandal backed sneakers. Ultimately, Dries Van Noten’s carefree mixing of free flowing separates and ethnic patterns results in a collection that is young, fresh, intelligent and above all–sophisticated.
Designers 101 – Dries Van Noten
The Rundown
Facts:
Name: Dries Van Noten
Birthdate: 1958
Hometown: Antwerp, Belgium
Label: Dries Van Noten
Education: Graduated from Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1980
Collection Debut: 1986, show in London
Menswear Paris Debut: 1991
Quoted:
“Being considered and labeled a ‘Belgian’ designer is an integral part of my story. It is something I wear with pride, lightly, and is in no way a burden. It is always more pleasant however when it is used to describe rather than ‘box in’. Maybe we have finally got ‘what we were wishing for…’ Fashion is now a global phenomenon rather than simply a ‘national one’. The globalization of images and aspirations has gone a long way to making this the case.”
- Dries Van Noten, 2008 Interview with Filep Motwary
Les Créateurs
Editorial: Les Créateurs
Magazine: Menswear Fall 2008
Photography: Oleg Covian
Interview: Emilie Marsh
Scans: The Fashionisto
“IF YOU ARE CONFIDENT WITH YOUR MASCULINITY, YOU CAN PLAY AROUND, WITH STREET-BOY CONFIDENCE. THIS IS THE MAN I HAVE IN MIND. HE IS THE GIVENCHY WOMAN’S BOYFRIEND–A BAD BOY WITH A GOOD SOUL.”
- RICCARDO TISCI, GIVENCHY
“I RESPECT MEN. THEY KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THEY LIKE AND WHAT THEY DON’T LIKE. BUT PERHAPS THEY SHOULD EXPERIMENT MORE AND MAKE CHOICES WITH THEIR HEARTS.”
- ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
“VOLUME AND AIR WERE CENTRAL TO THIS COLLECTION. AIR GIVES CLOTHES PERSONALITY AND SOUL. MY ROLE IS NOT TO CREATE AN ECCENTRIC LOOK, BUT TO MAKE SOMETHING MEN DESIRE…TO MAKE PEOPLE DREAM.”
- LUCAS OSSENDRIJVER, LANVIN
“WE ASPIRE TO ‘DAPPER NOT DANDY.’ WE’RE INTERESTED IN A CERTAIN TWIST–BUT ONE THAT CAN BE FELT, NOT JUST SEEN.”
- DRIES VAN NOTEN
Fall 2008 New Arrivals
Phillip Lim & Maison Martin Margiela @ Eluxury
I’m a huge Phillip Lim fan and so pleased. He never disappoints. I missed out on his peacoat last year. Maybe, I will purchase it this time around.
A.P.C. & Dries Van Noten @ South Willard
I’m so excited. The A.P.C. jeans pictured are the ones I regret not snagging last fall and the Dries Van Noten cardigan has great volume and is such a great color.
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