Despite Milan and Paris setting the scene for a spate of forthcoming Spring 2010 collections, we became acquainted this past week with a varied array of releases available for Fall 2009. While some hit the mark more than others, the collections all seemed to be participating in a parade of plaid. The plaid, or tartan, pattern was all the rage last fall season, seen in almost every runway show – BryanBoy agreed – and we again just couldn’t escape it earlier this year in Milan. The latest Fall 2009 releases from such labels as the palindromic Kiryuyrik and Junya Watanabe’s self-titled eYe collection with Comme des Garçons continue the trend… is it time to acknowledge that plaid might be just a little overplayed?

Kiryuyrik Fall 2009

Designer Masakatsu Takayanagi – a former pattern maker at Yohji Yamamoto – seems to have made a game of incorporating almost every current movement in fashion in his latest release under Kiryuyrik. There are sheen fabrics, tassels and bondage-inspired strappings, leather boots, a touch of androgyny in the form of kilts and fur… It comes, then, as no surprise that, having seen plaid aplenty during the fall 2009 collections showcased earlier this year, Takayanagi is more than happy to hedge his bets and embrace the tartan trend.

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Dark and brooding, Kiryuyrik delivers on their promise to offer clothes that are beautiful in not only presence, but function. Take the quiet, but fashion-forward confidence of the spring collection, add a rocker’s sensibility and you have the fall line. Sheen surfaces appear rain-slick, while luxe and difference is served up by the collection’s elongated proportions and varying fabrics. Dressing fashion’s conservative standbys like the peacoat in plaid and pairing them with rebellious bondage-inspired trousers and kilts, designer Masakatsu Takayanagi creates the trendsetter’s perfect idea of a wardrobe.

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Another new label to arrive at Forward is Japanese label Kiryuyrik. Founded in 2002, Kiryuyrik is the product of Masakatsu Takayanagi and Yuki Taniyama. The design duo ease into a simplistic, but sensational collection that is slightly reminiscent of the work of Yohji Yamamoto. However, this is not surprising as both Takayanagi and Taniyama have worked for Yamamoto. Takayanagi worked as a pattern maker, while Taniyama was a press agent. Their invaluable experience definitely has not gone to waste. Working with a monochromatic color palette, the duo has turned out a collection that is as fashionably slim as it is sleek and contemporary. Pre-wrinkled fabrics and cleverly placed drawstrings give the collection personality, while clean but edgy cuts will be sure to secure Kiryuyrik a place in several wish lists.

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