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When Inez & Vinoodh are not starring in their own campaign as if recently, they are charged with shooting most of this season’s campaigns, including Yves Saint Laurent. Making a splash this season, newcomer Paolo Anchisi, the current face of Versace adds Yves Saint Laurent to his resume with a colorful beauty shot. (desaparecidos @ Model Hommes)
Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati has created a special seventeen-piece spring 2010 collection for Atelier New York. Dark and anti-fit, the exclusive range fits right in with Atelier’s usual offerings, which include Ann Demeulemeester, Julius, Damir Doma and Rick Owens.
After a season in which Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati took great liberties with draped silhouettes, the designer returns to form with a very structured fall outing. Combining a knack for oversize proportions with a popular silhouette that is shrinking once more, Pilati offers a blend of both attributes as he approaches suiting and outerwear with great zeal. Whereas the aforementioned took a grounded path save for cinched waists, Pilati added quirky details in the gathering of trousers, skirted hems and the occasional fringe or two. With fine editing, the Yves Saint Laurent man appears at the top of his game, mixing just the right amount of accessibility with modern fervor.
The fall season is quickly coming to a close and Yves Saint Laurent looks towards the future with their cruise 2010 collection. Nonchalant in terms of fit, Stefano Pilati turns to both baggy and oversize proportions to outfit his man. Rebelling against the narrow silhouette, loose trousers, not only sport a high sack waist, but are cropped a safe distance from the ankle. Paired with jackets and blazers that aim at a more tailored approach, the finishing touches of the range are seen in nomadic draping and a muted color palette. While accessibility may prove a difficulty, Pilati succeeds in forcing upon the eye a chaotic world of risks that takes shape around new ideas about the very construction of menswear.
Purple’s Olivier Zahm followed Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati for a couple weeks to capture the essence of his style. In an interview with the photographer and friend, Pilati talks about his own aesthetic and various inspirations. Expressing his opinion about men’s fashion today, Pilati shared, “Men’s fashion has changed a lot. It’s a disaster really, the men you see walking down the street. There’s no proportion, no sense of style. People look for comfort more than anything else. That’s the reason for the success of those shoes that are a bit city and a bit sporty. [Laughs] Why not have a nice pair of brogues, a nice pair of clogs for the weekend, and a pair of sneakers to do walking in? But it’s all mixed up now.” To read more of the interview, check out the latest issue of Purple on newsstands.
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