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The mood may be somber for Andreas Larsson’s editorial for the debut issue of L’Officiel Hommes Germany, but stylist Marcus Zietz charms with a display of bold prints and graphics. Set against Larsson’s striking photography, Adrian Wlodarski, Gabriel Grovnik, Jacob Coupe, Tomek Szczukiecki and William Eustace model the artistry of several of fashion’s finest designers from Ann Demeulemeester and Riccardi Tisci to Rei Kawakubo.
Working with stylist Christopher Campbell, David Roemer photographs another crisp array of suiting for Robb Report. Appearing in the March 2010 issue, the editorial employs Adrian Wlodarski, Guy Robinson and Ryan Kennedy for a sophisticated spin of spring’s best.
Dunhill creative director Kim Jones looks to Clement Court for inspiration this season. Court was responsible for establishing Dunhill’s French presence during the twenties. Looking to an iconic sense of proper British suiting and outerwear, Jones turns out one classic after another–fusing Dunhill’s heritage with everyday function.
A humble black and clay color palette dressed the most recent collection from Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche. Striking a chord with relaxed tailoring, the designer continues in this vein, turning his efforts to this season’s outerwear. Found somewhere in between boxy and oversize, Dior’s man is given a larger than life silhouette that he takes on with ease. Coexisting harmoniously with the collection’s minimalist approach to monochromatic suiting, this season’s foray into outerwear solidifies a new chic Dior Homme that is understated, yet effective.
Milan Fashion Week comes to a dreary close with Z Zegna’s sterile fall outing. Somber, save for a couple brown pieces, Z Zegna’s fall 2010 collection manages to make fall 2009’s overall blackout seem colorful. The label turned to tonal panneling and interesting details to progress this season’ direction, but ultimately came up short, washing out the best attributes by failing to offset a constant visual with arresting difference.
Creating fashion for a futuristic world, Versace’s fall 2010 collection rejects the classic notions of luxury. Inspired by the cyberpunk universe of sci-fi film Tron and William Gibson’s novel Neuromancer, the Versace man is transformed into an individual who rejects the establishment, instead looking to create his own path. Drawn to a predominantly black and silver color palette accented by blues and purples, form-fitting garments pave the way for Versace’s modern uniform. As the suit takes a backseat, biker jackets take the lead with a strong focus on shape and fit. Meanwhile, leather pants make a comeback as silver provides the foundation for a soft armor. Adding yet another level of detail, the color spectrum is manipulated to not only provide for fall’s signature print, but mark a new era for Versace.
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