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Taking a step back from last season’s collection, designer Richard Chai opts for a casual fall season of blues, grays and blacks. Evoking the image of the boy next door, Chai ties together a string of loose easily integrable pieces that imitate a little wear around the edges with oil-like gradients, thin layers and slouchy fits. Continuing a comfortable blend of streetwear with a high fashion approach, Chai crafts a sophisticated yet relaxed fall season.
Undeniably one of menswear’s most rebellious designers, Thom Browne looks to old New York as his inspiration for fall’s collection. Letting out his shrunken silhouette, the outlandish designer took to exaggerated proportions to convey an overindulgent sense of luxury. With fur spilling out of the unlikeliest places, Browne turned to outerwear as a clear component of the collection’s worth, while elongated knits and tops made a wild splash against Browne’s impeccably tailored suiting. Whether his proportions are large or small, fall’s outing reaffirms Browne’s unwillingness to compromise his vision to the whims of the times.
The downsides of love may have been Yohji Yamamoto’s inspiration for Y-3’s latest outing, but romance was to be found in the sheer movement and drape of his designs. Geared as always to the athletic minded and style aficionado at heart, Yamamoto turned out a dark collection of billowing tops, capes and bottoms that took his vision for Adidas to the next level. Infusing sportswear with a tongue-in-cheek formality, Yamamoto delivered a great variety of lively pieces that were not complete without his signature oversize fit.
Loden Dager’s latest endeavor is a precise exercise in the gradual dissection of menswear standards. Taking a refreshingly light approach to fall, relaxed suits are dressed in an array of both neutral and jovial colors. Initially a conservative focus, this point of view unravels as the collection progresses with looser silhouettes that hang freely from the body as separates take on voluminous belted outerwear and cape-inspired jackets. From dropped crotches and folded waistlines to safe shirting options, Loden Dager opts for a stylish season of wide appeal. Infusing a modern sophistication with a certain informality, Loden Dager arrives at the perfect balance of substance and style.
Moving in a more fashionably versed direction, the latest collection from Spurr undergoes a downtown makeover. Hip and dangerously dark, fall’s outing proves that in addition to the dapper suit, Spurr knows how to make effortlessly cool sportswear. In the same vein, the label takes their tailored suit and turns it on its side for a hip undertaking in plaid and tweed. Ideal for the quintessential man with several occasion-driven personalities, Spurr goes the extra mile to provide a well-rounded view on what’s current in menswear.
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