Showing his menswear collection alongside womenswear this season, Yigal Azrouël’s point of view was lost in translation. Less disheveled than usual, there appeared to be a clean break between savvy city fashion and a humble perspective, noted by nordic prints. From conservative cuts and boxy numbers to forced draping, Azrouël met the chaotic season with far too many references. Leaning towards an edgier man, it was here that the collection not only showed its strengths, but a new light in which to cast Azrouël’s easygoing style.

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Generra’s newest creative team Swaim and Christina Hutson decided to infuse the season with color. Dopey and upbeat, the collection sought to take the ordinary and lend it a new lease on life. A ball of quirks unravelled, the Hutsons offered everything from a daring jumpsuit and grandpa cardigan to straight-laced workwear. Proving that you do not have break the mold to have a little fun, the range ensures an electrifying season come fall, whether bundled in a coat or dressed in a striking suit.

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korean designer wooyoungmi puts her mind to the timeless men’s wardrobe with an interest in the era of the silent movie, when stars could communicate with an exaggerated style of dress, leading to an exploration of proportions and the boundaries of a classic style …
with outerwear creating the central figure, wide leg trousers are combined with heavy overcoats to give a slouchy square silhouette while cropped trousers peek from below long-line jackets and suiting is wrapped up with long textured knits … tuxedo style bibs are paired with high waisted trousers … fluffy textures contrast with quilted flannel and soft cashmere … the palette of soft greys, blacks and slate blues nods to the gentleman yet staying fresh with a dash of white, cream and oxblood … detached collars, cuffs and cut out felt bow ties pop up, add layers and complement the playfulness of proportion … zips appear on collars … thick wedged soles counterbalance the image of traditional footwear while black felt helmet-like headwear gives a sense of uniformity …

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As the line continues to blur between Raf Simons work for Jil Sander and his own line, the Belgian designer attempts to shock with a collection that tests the constraints of gender. Embellishing well-tailored suiting with magnetic snaps and zippers, Simons goes another step, adding form-fitting knits and wrap skirts to the equation. Further differentiating the range from other seasons, broken geometrics find a random home spread out across the collection’s tops and jackets. At large, Simons has several design elements at play that often conflict with each other, leaving the collection’s strength to its minimalist assets found in unworked suiting that ultimately provides the range with its strong foundation.

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The mood was upbeat at today’s Kenzo show, where designer Antonio Marras looked to French filmmaker Jacques Tati for inspiration. Taking a cue from an older generation, Marras based fall’s collection around tweed, houndstooth, muted plaid and abstract prints. Accenting a generally gray color palette with the occasional sightings of red, brown and orange, cropped jackets and ankle baring trousers were made complete with spacious outerwear. Altogether, crafting a charming nostalgic affair, Marras delivered an inspiring collection that ended with a bang as models took to Place des Victoires for a showstoping finale.

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