Creating a world where lush timeless knits can harmoniously co-exist with modern leather garments, designer James Long finds success in the details. Whereas many of his peers embraced leather sleeve inserts for the upcoming fall season, Long goes the extra mile, beginning with two distinct classes of garments before finding a common thread. Skillfully crafting separates, consisting of knitwear and leather with impeccable attention to detail, the two contrasting elements are gradually brought together for a near genius result. Delivering both edge and comfort, a playful mix of fabrics is rounded out by a small splash of color–lending a dark and sophisticated collection an upbeat mood.

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Leaving behind the romantic grace of last season, John Rocha approaches dark territory with a wild deconstruction of suiting and outerwear. Juxtaposing relaxed tailoring with loosely draped fabrics, Rocha rebels against the traditional structure of menswear in preference of a season that calls for a sophistication that is a little raw around the edges.

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Alternating between black and ash gray, Damir Doma uses the fall season as the perfect opportunity to pack the volume back on. Creating his own bubble away from the world, Doma moves to cloak his man from the elements with meticulously constructed layers of seamless draping. Meanwhile, robe-like outerwear and billowing shapes act as a reoccurring theme for Doma as he progresses the collection with an exciting splash of print and the occasional bare leg or two. Ultimately, Doma continues to demonstrate his expertise in executing near effortless silhouettes–fitted or voluminous.

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Ute Ploier approaches the fall season with a modest proposal. Calling for a softer side to masculinity, the Austrian designer sent a refined mix of mohair knits, billowing trousers, oversize tweed, flannel outerwear and effortless draping down the runway. Utilizing plaid and the simplicity of solids, Ploier added a certain casualness to her otherwise formal outing.

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A humble black and clay color palette dressed the most recent collection from Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche. Striking a chord with relaxed tailoring, the designer continues in this vein, turning his efforts to this season’s outerwear. Found somewhere in between boxy and oversize, Dior’s man is given a larger than life silhouette that he takes on with ease. Coexisting harmoniously with the collection’s minimalist approach to monochromatic suiting, this season’s foray into outerwear solidifies a new chic Dior Homme that is understated, yet effective.

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