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Madrid-based designer David Delfin made a splash at this past New York Fashion Week with his colorful namesake label. Accenting a somber gray palette with a lively yellow, the designer had his men walking to a quirky beat of their own making. Taking on the traditional suit, Elfin looked to a form-conscious silhouette as well as interesting short combos to break up the melancholy of safe standbys. With boxy necklines and deconstructed suiting elements, Elfin delivered fine form mixed with a little humor.
Taking a step back from last season’s collection, designer Richard Chai opts for a casual fall season of blues, grays and blacks. Evoking the image of the boy next door, Chai ties together a string of loose easily integrable pieces that imitate a little wear around the edges with oil-like gradients, thin layers and slouchy fits. Continuing a comfortable blend of streetwear with a high fashion approach, Chai crafts a sophisticated yet relaxed fall season.
With a taste of privilege and careless abandon, Band of Outsiders designer Scott Sternberg turned to the outdoors to set the stage for fall’s collection. Fusing his signature preppy style with the grit of a man who works outdoors, whether it is fishing or hunting, the new range embraced quilting and function in full force. Accenting a primary array of navy and gray with mustard yellow, suiting and outerwear fell into a casual stride as Sternberg remained true to the authentic Band of Outsiders man.
Opting for a presentation this season, but still giving his audience the runway experience, Patrik Ervell sent his models into a flurry as they were put on constant rotation making their way through a maze-like setup–dissected by the suspended pieces of translucent fabric that in fact mirrored the collection’s constrained playfulness. Fitted and strong on structure, Ervell’s minimalist tendencies were fused with the unexpected gracefulness of soft moving latex rubber and transparent vinyl. The product of a finely executed imagination, Ervell’s simple eccentricities blended harmoniously with with neutral based garments, crafted from wool and tweed. Set to the frantic music of Terry Riley, Ervell served a beautiful collection of controlled insanity–monochromatic numbers, meticulous tailoring and a uniform fit that felt fresh yet organic.
An Oscar Wilde classic gets revisited once more as photographer Oliver Spies turns to The Picture of Dorian Gray for inspiration. Styled by Marcus Zietz with sharp stern suiting, the dark editorial puts youth and beauty under the microscope. Sitting for their portraits are Gen Huisman, Arthur Daniyarov, Tristan Knights, Cosmo MacDonald, Benoni Loos, Gordon Bothe, Rob Rae and Grayson Vaughn.
The spring 2010 season not only marks the third collection of Austin Sherbanenko, but also his second runway show in New York. The latest collection stems from mixed influences taking from past events–distant, near and natural. Inspired by industrial landscapes and Black Metal, Sherbanenko finds an environment that nurtures his vision. Entitled “Confined Translation”, the spring collection finds a more grounded range that channels a dark urban character. Slim silhouettes offer accessible pants that are non-threatening, while outerwear reaches far and wide. At times, a shirt jacket appears safe and easily integrable, while at other times, Sherbanenko brings the drama with extended lengths and deconstructed capes. Taking season appropriate details into account, Sherbanenko delivers thin shirts and tanks, complimented by an array of jackets that are loosely fastened, if at all. Altogether, Odyn Vovk continues to grow in point of view–traveling a path that is progressively more lax as it matures.
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