Channeling the mood of downtown New York City of the late 1970s and early 1980s, the latest collection from J.Sabatino models itself after the artists living in illegal lofts. Often dressed with a refreshing apt for an effortless cool taken from the thrift stores of the day, the range takes its muses from the films of Jim Jarmusch (Permanent Vacation) and Ulli Lommel (Blank Generation). Fusing subtle patterns and colors with dramatic relaxed proportions, whether small or large, a nostalgic charm takes designer Jay Sabatino’s collection far.

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It’s an ethereal outing for next month’s issue of Wallpaper, which features an editorial photographed by Andreas Sjödin. Starring an intense Jakob Hybholt styled by Sébastien Clivaz, the shoot takes look at spring’s plentiful offering of light and sheer garments that leave style savvy men with just the right amount of careful exposure.

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Taking a step back from last season’s collection, designer Richard Chai opts for a casual fall season of blues, grays and blacks. Evoking the image of the boy next door, Chai ties together a string of loose easily integrable pieces that imitate a little wear around the edges with oil-like gradients, thin layers and slouchy fits. Continuing a comfortable blend of streetwear with a high fashion approach, Chai crafts a sophisticated yet relaxed fall season.

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Undeniably one of menswear’s most rebellious designers, Thom Browne looks to old New York as his inspiration for fall’s collection. Letting out his shrunken silhouette, the outlandish designer took to exaggerated proportions to convey an overindulgent sense of luxury. With fur spilling out of the unlikeliest places, Browne turned to outerwear as a clear component of the collection’s worth, while elongated knits and tops made a wild splash against Browne’s impeccably tailored suiting. Whether his proportions are large or small, fall’s outing reaffirms Browne’s unwillingness to compromise his vision to the whims of the times.

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Subscribing to a palette of neutrals and festive colors, Lacoste continues New York’s colorful streak. Taking to a yellow runway, there was no reason to be gloomy at Lacoste’s show. Embracing relaxed silhouettes of sporty yet chic separates, the label’s accessibility factor was through the roof as look after look produced comfortable updated staples.

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