for autumn/winter 10-11, smalto’s young creative director youn chong bak invites us on a sensory journey in the asian steppes and presents a collection with a radical bias inspired by traditional ancestral treasures …
the anchor of the collection lies in the natural elements, far from any urbanity and architecture … youn chong bak was also inspired by mongolian history and heritage through details found in typical clothing … she tried to transcribe the conquering spirit, rituals and festive warmth that emerge from this culture …
true to the smalto man, the journey exudes an air of mystery … the infinity of the landscape deepening the urge to devour the space … the near and distant ravel in the same immediate perception …this magnetic experience, where solitude is essential, invites self-reflection … an atmosphere favourable with the shamanic spirits reigns … appeasement is at the end of the journey …

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korean designer wooyoungmi puts her mind to the timeless men’s wardrobe with an interest in the era of the silent movie, when stars could communicate with an exaggerated style of dress, leading to an exploration of proportions and the boundaries of a classic style …
with outerwear creating the central figure, wide leg trousers are combined with heavy overcoats to give a slouchy square silhouette while cropped trousers peek from below long-line jackets and suiting is wrapped up with long textured knits … tuxedo style bibs are paired with high waisted trousers … fluffy textures contrast with quilted flannel and soft cashmere … the palette of soft greys, blacks and slate blues nods to the gentleman yet staying fresh with a dash of white, cream and oxblood … detached collars, cuffs and cut out felt bow ties pop up, add layers and complement the playfulness of proportion … zips appear on collars … thick wedged soles counterbalance the image of traditional footwear while black felt helmet-like headwear gives a sense of uniformity …

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As the line continues to blur between Raf Simons work for Jil Sander and his own line, the Belgian designer attempts to shock with a collection that tests the constraints of gender. Embellishing well-tailored suiting with magnetic snaps and zippers, Simons goes another step, adding form-fitting knits and wrap skirts to the equation. Further differentiating the range from other seasons, broken geometrics find a random home spread out across the collection’s tops and jackets. At large, Simons has several design elements at play that often conflict with each other, leaving the collection’s strength to its minimalist assets found in unworked suiting that ultimately provides the range with its strong foundation.

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Alternating between black and ash gray, Damir Doma uses the fall season as the perfect opportunity to pack the volume back on. Creating his own bubble away from the world, Doma moves to cloak his man from the elements with meticulously constructed layers of seamless draping. Meanwhile, robe-like outerwear and billowing shapes act as a reoccurring theme for Doma as he progresses the collection with an exciting splash of print and the occasional bare leg or two. Ultimately, Doma continues to demonstrate his expertise in executing near effortless silhouettes–fitted or voluminous.

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Walking to the sound of their own beat, Julius works within their own context, progressing a fall season that is darker than last. With their faces obstructed by dramatic bangs, Julius’ models course the runway in meticulous draping, treated leather and bold skin-baring silhouettes that defy the season’s functional staples.

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