Positioned as “a tribute to the beauty of mixing wardrobe elements that don’t always seem to fit”, Robert Geller’s latest collection fused the utmost sophistication with the effortless finesse of the downtown beatnik. Playing with fitted and relaxed looks, Geller sent a well-proportioned range down the runway that moved as well as it was styled. Dressed in lilacs, charcoals and greens, Geller’s man was on the move, quickly walking down the runway with an extra bounce in his step. From fur shawls and leather jackets to the cropped asymmetrical cape, the collection produced a modern wardrobe of clarity. Tailoring and great fabrics spoke to the classic sense of the gentleman, but Geller turned this notion on its side, infusing the range with a rebellious quality. For every sleek evening coat, Geller sent out a striking modern piece, whether it was a shrunken dinner jacket or layered blazer. Rounding out fall’s collection, the show closed with a somber number consisting of a cape, elongated top and simple denim. It was the image of the quintessential Robert Geller man–a romantic thought born from the conversation of yesterday and the future.

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Walter Van Beirendonck’s eccentric designs often appear to be from another world, so fittingly, he explores that theme for the fall 2010 season, turning to martians of every color for inspiration. In Beirendonck’s universe, his men are either wearing heels and leggings or brightly colored body suits, best complemented by a wide variety of quirky pieces. Beirenonck serves up an amusing array of bolero knits, jumpsuits and knits best emblazoned with a “W”.

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Walking to the sound of their own beat, Julius works within their own context, progressing a fall season that is darker than last. With their faces obstructed by dramatic bangs, Julius’ models course the runway in meticulous draping, treated leather and bold skin-baring silhouettes that defy the season’s functional staples.

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Gaspard Yurkievich’s man is confidently on the move as the designer makes haste to deconstruct the suit. Scrapping tradition, Yurkievich reassembles his own suit, applying different colorways and embellishments to fashion his modern creation. Maintaining relatively normal upper proportions, Yurkievich approaches trousers with two dominant pleats, a controlled, but relaxed fit and a timeless grace. Altogether, the fall collection turns suiting inside out, only to come out with a uniform look that within modern context makes perfect sense.

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Stylist Tom Van Dorpe and photographer Minoru Kaburagi come together once more for an editorial in Chinese magazine IT Post. Dressing Marcel Castenmiller, Lyle Lodwick and Joseph Culp, it is in the shadows that Van Dorpe finds a subtle futurism in the confines of current menswear. Ultimately, the result is an editorial that inspires, while pushing the boundaries of normalcy.

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