As the line continues to blur between Raf Simons work for Jil Sander and his own line, the Belgian designer attempts to shock with a collection that tests the constraints of gender. Embellishing well-tailored suiting with magnetic snaps and zippers, Simons goes another step, adding form-fitting knits and wrap skirts to the equation. Further differentiating the range from other seasons, broken geometrics find a random home spread out across the collection’s tops and jackets. At large, Simons has several design elements at play that often conflict with each other, leaving the collection’s strength to its minimalist assets found in unworked suiting that ultimately provides the range with its strong foundation.

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After a season in which Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati took great liberties with draped silhouettes, the designer returns to form with a very structured fall outing. Combining a knack for oversize proportions with a popular silhouette that is shrinking once more, Pilati offers a blend of both attributes as he approaches suiting and outerwear with great zeal. Whereas the aforementioned took a grounded path save for cinched waists, Pilati added quirky details in the gathering of trousers, skirted hems and the occasional fringe or two. With fine editing, the Yves Saint Laurent man appears at the top of his game, mixing just the right amount of accessibility with modern fervor.

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Taking shape on the runway this season, Juun J showcases a more structured perspective. Blending a keen eye for details with a progressive thirst, vivid colors meet a static sea of black and gray for a dynamic presentation. Balancing wide and narrow proportions, special attention is shared between billowing sleeves and trousers, while dramatic hoods further the collection’s momentum. Altogether, Juun J transports his man to a world where he has to show a hard exterior, but beneath rests soft layers of care and thoughtfulness. From the subtle asymmetrical cut and leather insert to added length and volume, Juun J successfully bridges the gap between the accessible and the inventive.

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Creating fashion for a futuristic world, Versace’s fall 2010 collection rejects the classic notions of luxury. Inspired by the cyberpunk universe of sci-fi film Tron and William Gibson’s novel Neuromancer, the Versace man is transformed into an individual who rejects the establishment, instead looking to create his own path. Drawn to a predominantly black and silver color palette accented by blues and purples, form-fitting garments pave the way for Versace’s modern uniform. As the suit takes a backseat, biker jackets take the lead with a strong focus on shape and fit. Meanwhile, leather pants make a comeback as silver provides the foundation for a soft armor. Adding yet another level of detail, the color spectrum is manipulated to not only provide for fall’s signature print, but mark a new era for Versace.

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After a season’s break, Alexander McQueen returns to the runway with the usual theatrics subdued. Tightly wound to create tension, the enigmatic collection sets the stage with intense camouflage, balaclavas and drastic silhouettes. Appearing as if doused in a spontaneous yet rhythmic sequence of prints, McQueen breathes life into a mysterious character that brings with him uncertainty and excitement. The results are a playful mix of unorthodox shapes that capture McQueen’s genius and imagination, while also coinciding harmoniously with the collection’s more grounded pieces. Altogether, Mcqueen’s fall outing adds a generous vitality to suiting and outerwear through prints, before progressing forward with boxy cuts, textured inserts and layered proportions.

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