As Gareth Pugh continues to blur the gender line, his menswear has gradually become less affected, while conveying a certain softness. Dressed in his customary color palette of black and gray, this season’s collection takes an affection for light and thoughtful draping. Relaxed and less body conscious than previous seasons, the Pugh man is undoubtedly on the cusp of tomorrow’s fashion, but his direction is more subtle. Still however, Gareth Pugh gains attention with a mischevious attention to detail as seen in the collection’s more provocative leather pieces–often reminiscent of S&M themes and the designer’s edge factor.

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Reversing the spelling of his full name, designer Eric Kim moves forward with the launch of his new label Mik Cire. Formerly, the creative force behind Monarchy, Kim is branching out to explore a line that entails more than just denim and t-shirts. Hoping to create a full-range of affordable garments with a fashionable appeal, fall’s debut sees a penchant for black effortlessly tied to an accessible look–representative of a generation intrigued with the art of dressing, but ultimately with an approach that is young and current. Combining sharp outerwear with the provocativeness of street fashion, the Mik Cire’s man is off to a beat of his own with great future potential.

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Subversive, Siki Im’s sophomore collection deconstructs tradition-bound suiting in favor of arresting fall layers that bring a certain softness to menswear. A modern day warrior of intellect, Siki Im’s man is the result of a fusion between western and eastern ideas. From wraps and kimono-style jackets to the minimalist construction of asymmetrical suiting, fall’s collection delivers a healthy amount of both innovation and sartorial inspiration.

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Undeniably one of menswear’s most rebellious designers, Thom Browne looks to old New York as his inspiration for fall’s collection. Letting out his shrunken silhouette, the outlandish designer took to exaggerated proportions to convey an overindulgent sense of luxury. With fur spilling out of the unlikeliest places, Browne turned to outerwear as a clear component of the collection’s worth, while elongated knits and tops made a wild splash against Browne’s impeccably tailored suiting. Whether his proportions are large or small, fall’s outing reaffirms Browne’s unwillingness to compromise his vision to the whims of the times.

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Recent winner of GQ’s best menswear designer, Billy Reid piles on the southern charm for his latest fall venture. Setting the tone with a moody set covered in fall’s crumpled leaves, Reid presented a strapping collection for the grounded gentleman. Unsurprisingly earthy, the range moved away from the tailored suit, gradually forming a masculine collection of wearable pieces that evoke romanticized images of those who work with their hands for a living, whether it is the woodsman or fisherman. Simple, but finely executed, Reid demonstrates how far great construction and detail can take a collection.

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