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Louis Vuitton plays it safe this season with a relaxed attempt at formal suiting. Adding leather inserts to jackets and elasticated cuffs to trousers, the Louis Vuitton man moves to downplay his prestige. Down outerwear may help his case, but the collection overall comes across as static with the exception of an arresting pair of duo-tone colored boots.
Milan Fashion Week comes to a dreary close with Z Zegna’s sterile fall outing. Somber, save for a couple brown pieces, Z Zegna’s fall 2010 collection manages to make fall 2009’s overall blackout seem colorful. The label turned to tonal panneling and interesting details to progress this season’ direction, but ultimately came up short, washing out the best attributes by failing to offset a constant visual with arresting difference.
A byproduct of old and new ideas, the latest collection from John Richmond tests age sensibilities with garments that multigenerational. The standard suit is let out and reformed with a punk attitude, while classic staples like the trench become modern with a quilted update. Meanwhile, eveningwear is juxtaposed with casual denim and the grandpa sweater left in tact for character. A well-rounded figure, John Richmond’s man approaches the fall season with an unwavering determination to progress his style, while also paying a nod to the classics.
Summing up this season’s collection, Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier explained that with this collection, they “wanted to address the different ways men visualize themselves. Bottega Veneta’s goal is always to expand the vocabulary of men’s wear, to add individuality and expression. So there is sophistication, but also playfulness, bravado, eccentricity, rebelliousness – it all depends on how it’s put together.” Taking that cue, Maier set about with presenting looks for the man of any occasion. While a loose fitted layering of activewear hinted at a chic casualness, low slung denim provided for a sharp contrast against the collection’s more formal approach. The finer points of the collection were constructed by the marriage of high-waist trousers and boxy blazers. Whether dressed in black or a deep purple, Maier’s fall range delivered a functional nonchalance that is ultimately refreshing.
Playing it safe, Ermenegildo Zegna looks to well-tailored suiting to make this season’s statement. Turning to gray and navy, the label’s strength rests with suiting for day and evening. Although suiting tends to be timeless, it’s a shame Emenegildo Zegna’s selection of outerwear was so limited as the pieces they did present were meticulous. Cut generously, the collection’s outerwear offers a modern wardrobe update without giving into temporary trends.
Dolce & Gabbana tones down the luxe factor this season with a varied collection of the usual pieces, but a gritty element. Void of color and not afraid of a rip, hole or two, the range’s most notable pieces are found in the disheveled tanks, knits and longjohns. Alternatively, Dolce & Gabbana’s man, who is known to work with his hands is championed by the oil-like wash given to the collection’s denim. Finally, speckled knits, tweed and velvet find their way into this season’s offerings for those special occasions.
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