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As the line continues to blur between Raf Simons work for Jil Sander and his own line, the Belgian designer attempts to shock with a collection that tests the constraints of gender. Embellishing well-tailored suiting with magnetic snaps and zippers, Simons goes another step, adding form-fitting knits and wrap skirts to the equation. Further differentiating the range from other seasons, broken geometrics find a random home spread out across the collection’s tops and jackets. At large, Simons has several design elements at play that often conflict with each other, leaving the collection’s strength to its minimalist assets found in unworked suiting that ultimately provides the range with its strong foundation.
Milan Fashion Week comes to a dreary close with Z Zegna’s sterile fall outing. Somber, save for a couple brown pieces, Z Zegna’s fall 2010 collection manages to make fall 2009’s overall blackout seem colorful. The label turned to tonal panneling and interesting details to progress this season’ direction, but ultimately came up short, washing out the best attributes by failing to offset a constant visual with arresting difference.
As tradition dictates, the Gucci man makes an unapologetic fall debut with luxury on parade in the usual form of leather, velvet, suede and fur. Not quite suited for downtime this season, Gucci narrows in on suiting and outerwear with an earthy color appeal. Instead of turning to bold colors and prints, Gucci lets the fabrics and workmanship do the talking with a collection that evokes the rich lifestyle without being reckless.
Based in the UK, Norsea Industries’ aim is to lease classics a new life through reinvention. Not getting caught up in the seriousness of such a task, Norsea Industries offers a spring collection that showcases styles that are both laid-back and playful. Clean suiting separates in core colors like navy and khaki represent the standard, while a joyful mix of patterns lighten the mood with several tones. Large floral prints evoke images of leisure, while smaller, daintier prints echo the enchanting dandy. Brightly colored stripes add a comical tones, while a mix of stars and stripes adds an endearing quirkiness. Altogether, the collection is a mixed bag of emotions–and that is its strength! Personality-wise, we have many characteristics, so why shouldn’t our wardrobe? Kudos!
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