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Undeniably one of menswear’s most rebellious designers, Thom Browne looks to old New York as his inspiration for fall’s collection. Letting out his shrunken silhouette, the outlandish designer took to exaggerated proportions to convey an overindulgent sense of luxury. With fur spilling out of the unlikeliest places, Browne turned to outerwear as a clear component of the collection’s worth, while elongated knits and tops made a wild splash against Browne’s impeccably tailored suiting. Whether his proportions are large or small, fall’s outing reaffirms Browne’s unwillingness to compromise his vision to the whims of the times.
Unable to focus this season’s inspirations, Paul Smith decided on the next best course of action–return to his roots. Thinking back to his days of creating clothes for musicians, Smith decided on a varied range with pieces for rock-minded men of all ages. From nostalgic knickers, a wide spectrum of suiting and an asymmetrical cape to plaid punk numbers, Smith turned out yet another exciting show of balanced color and proportion.
Alternating between black and ash gray, Damir Doma uses the fall season as the perfect opportunity to pack the volume back on. Creating his own bubble away from the world, Doma moves to cloak his man from the elements with meticulously constructed layers of seamless draping. Meanwhile, robe-like outerwear and billowing shapes act as a reoccurring theme for Doma as he progresses the collection with an exciting splash of print and the occasional bare leg or two. Ultimately, Doma continues to demonstrate his expertise in executing near effortless silhouettes–fitted or voluminous.
Inspired by the legendary character of Sherlock Holmes, the latest collection from John Galliano takes us to the dark mysterious streets of England before venturing East for a colorful alternative. Infusing an English sensibility with his eccentric vision, Galliano gives traditional suiting and outerwear a generous punch in volume before offering up a colorful array of sporty skin-baring numbers. From mandarin collars and billowing floral embellished trousers to the proper gray suit, Galliano crafts yet another conceptual collection that delivers equal parts fantasy and practicability.
A byproduct of old and new ideas, the latest collection from John Richmond tests age sensibilities with garments that multigenerational. The standard suit is let out and reformed with a punk attitude, while classic staples like the trench become modern with a quilted update. Meanwhile, eveningwear is juxtaposed with casual denim and the grandpa sweater left in tact for character. A well-rounded figure, John Richmond’s man approaches the fall season with an unwavering determination to progress his style, while also paying a nod to the classics.
Stéphane Olivier, the face of Rock & Republic's fall 2009 campaign steps into an effortlessly cool ensemble that devotes itself entirely to black. Delivering great attitude and a sleek overall look, this is one time we do not mind the absence of color.
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