korean designer wooyoungmi puts her mind to the timeless men’s wardrobe with an interest in the era of the silent movie, when stars could communicate with an exaggerated style of dress, leading to an exploration of proportions and the boundaries of a classic style …
with outerwear creating the central figure, wide leg trousers are combined with heavy overcoats to give a slouchy square silhouette while cropped trousers peek from below long-line jackets and suiting is wrapped up with long textured knits … tuxedo style bibs are paired with high waisted trousers … fluffy textures contrast with quilted flannel and soft cashmere … the palette of soft greys, blacks and slate blues nods to the gentleman yet staying fresh with a dash of white, cream and oxblood … detached collars, cuffs and cut out felt bow ties pop up, add layers and complement the playfulness of proportion … zips appear on collars … thick wedged soles counterbalance the image of traditional footwear while black felt helmet-like headwear gives a sense of uniformity …

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Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz explained that the latest collection from the French fashion house took its inspirations from the street, looking to the style of everyday people for motivation. Developing this theme, designer Lucas Ossendrijver turned to a smart mix of both low-key and luxe pieces. Balancing the fitted with the relaxed, the collection looked to slouchy knits, lived-in trousers, functional outerwear and cinched waists for a subtle wardrobe update. Rounded out in a primary color palette with a hint of autumn, the collection is deserving of praise for its construction and effortless silhouettes.

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As the line continues to blur between Raf Simons work for Jil Sander and his own line, the Belgian designer attempts to shock with a collection that tests the constraints of gender. Embellishing well-tailored suiting with magnetic snaps and zippers, Simons goes another step, adding form-fitting knits and wrap skirts to the equation. Further differentiating the range from other seasons, broken geometrics find a random home spread out across the collection’s tops and jackets. At large, Simons has several design elements at play that often conflict with each other, leaving the collection’s strength to its minimalist assets found in unworked suiting that ultimately provides the range with its strong foundation.

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Sticking to true form, nothing is too out of the ordinary for Comme des Garçons SHIRT this season. Blending vivid plaid prints as always, the label pairs most of its bold shirting with relaxed solid trousers for a somewhat grounded look.

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The Ones 2 Watch is currently featuring Bananas model Zdenek as an up-and-coming model and with reason. Photographed by Steeve Beckouet and styled by Matthieu Pabiot, Zdenek demonstrates how an emotive personality can bring a spark to an otherwise dreary shoot.

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