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As Gareth Pugh continues to blur the gender line, his menswear has gradually become less affected, while conveying a certain softness. Dressed in his customary color palette of black and gray, this season’s collection takes an affection for light and thoughtful draping. Relaxed and less body conscious than previous seasons, the Pugh man is undoubtedly on the cusp of tomorrow’s fashion, but his direction is more subtle. Still however, Gareth Pugh gains attention with a mischevious attention to detail as seen in the collection’s more provocative leather pieces–often reminiscent of S&M themes and the designer’s edge factor.
Recent topics have been absent of Vogue Hommes Japan as the magazine preps their next issue, but the gears begin to roll again as they share a behind the scenes look at their time in Paris for fashion week, which finds the likely candidates like Robbie Wadge and Cole Mohr in front of the camera.
for autumn/winter 10-11, smalto’s young creative director youn chong bak invites us on a sensory journey in the asian steppes and presents a collection with a radical bias inspired by traditional ancestral treasures …
the anchor of the collection lies in the natural elements, far from any urbanity and architecture … youn chong bak was also inspired by mongolian history and heritage through details found in typical clothing … she tried to transcribe the conquering spirit, rituals and festive warmth that emerge from this culture …
true to the smalto man, the journey exudes an air of mystery … the infinity of the landscape deepening the urge to devour the space … the near and distant ravel in the same immediate perception …this magnetic experience, where solitude is essential, invites self-reflection … an atmosphere favourable with the shamanic spirits reigns … appeasement is at the end of the journey …
korean designer wooyoungmi puts her mind to the timeless men’s wardrobe with an interest in the era of the silent movie, when stars could communicate with an exaggerated style of dress, leading to an exploration of proportions and the boundaries of a classic style …
with outerwear creating the central figure, wide leg trousers are combined with heavy overcoats to give a slouchy square silhouette while cropped trousers peek from below long-line jackets and suiting is wrapped up with long textured knits … tuxedo style bibs are paired with high waisted trousers … fluffy textures contrast with quilted flannel and soft cashmere … the palette of soft greys, blacks and slate blues nods to the gentleman yet staying fresh with a dash of white, cream and oxblood … detached collars, cuffs and cut out felt bow ties pop up, add layers and complement the playfulness of proportion … zips appear on collars … thick wedged soles counterbalance the image of traditional footwear while black felt helmet-like headwear gives a sense of uniformity …
Unable to focus this season’s inspirations, Paul Smith decided on the next best course of action–return to his roots. Thinking back to his days of creating clothes for musicians, Smith decided on a varied range with pieces for rock-minded men of all ages. From nostalgic knickers, a wide spectrum of suiting and an asymmetrical cape to plaid punk numbers, Smith turned out yet another exciting show of balanced color and proportion.
More grounded than usual, this season Romain Kremer presents a man that is clothed for the most part. Resting heavily on structured outerwear, the color black provides a safe standby, but a cold sense of futurism converses beautifully with the gentle attributes of a cream color palette. Kremer may take great liberties with the constant expanding and retracting of his silhouettes, but one element that remains constant is a playful banter between the accessible and the provocative that challenges notions of acceptable fashion.
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