Versace Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Donatella’s Troops–Ver­sace cre­ative direc­tor Donatella Ver­sace gets the troops in order for her lat­est col­lec­tion. Putting a mil­i­taris­tic spin on Versace’s sig­na­ture flam­boy­ance, var­ied seg­ments came together under the direc­tive of sev­eral styles. Begin­ning the show with suit­ing, dressed in cam­ou­flage, the range tran­si­tioned to stud­ded blue denim before mov­ing on to auda­cious ensem­bles in red. With elec­tric pas­tels appear­ing beneath red coats, Ver­sace set the stage for a parade of coor­di­nated sep­a­rates in cam­ou­flaged flo­rals. Finally, bring­ing her men home with glitz and glam­our, sequined evening­wear brought the grand foray to a fit­ting finish.

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Nicole Farhi Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Sleeper Fash­ion–Hon­ing in on worldy fash­ions, Nicole Farhi arms their man with loungewear suit­able for long travel. Con­trast­ing a dark color palette against a fun sea­sonal motif, long sil­hou­ettes and a plen­i­tude of fits are show­cased. Whether serv­ing up tunic-​​inspired shirt­ing from the East or novel prints from the trop­ics, Nicole Farhi dishes a somber but play­ful affair.

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Moschino Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Play­ing Fash­ion–Moschino’s knack for bold prints and col­ors col­lides with a tra­di­tional sense of menswear for a pen­e­trat­ing col­lec­tion. Open­ing the show with bowler hats as well as suit­ing and tees printed with cob­ble­stones, the sea­son res­onated with a nos­tal­gic Lon­don flair. Mak­ing the gen­tle­man rel­e­vant, the trap­pings of the dis­tin­guished blended with a cheeky use of wardrobe dis­sec­tion for a new chap­ter. From patches on pants to exposed jacket seams, Moschino’s man was decon­structed and rebuilt, before emerg­ing with vibrant col­ors and graf­fiti prints that lend refined ele­gance a quirky undertone.

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Z Zegna Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

State of Trans­for­ma­tion–Craft­ing a min­i­mal­ist col­lec­tion for the sea­son, Z Zegna cre­ative direc­tor Paul Sur­ridge chan­neled the 1920’s with an ampli­fied focus on shape. Cre­at­ing a core of nar­row sil­hou­ettes for sharp suit­ing, the col­lec­tion branched out with over­size out­er­wear, cut dra­mat­i­cally and fea­tur­ing large detail­ing. A tes­ta­ment to impec­ca­ble pro­por­tions, fall’s lineup weaved its way in between shapes, wide and nar­row, cre­at­ing great con­trast and inter­est. Trans­form­ing gar­ments like the shirt jacket, leather made its intro­duc­tion with rich color and spon­tane­ity, only met by treated mohair. Alto­gether focused, Surridge’s show­ing for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son cul­mi­nated in easy gar­ments given the lux­u­ri­ous makeover in terms of con­struc­tion, fit and style.

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Etro Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

High Ambi­tions–Ready for new heights, designer Kean Etro looked to the mys­ti­cal Pega­sus as the start­ing point of his lat­est col­lec­tion. Mar­ry­ing the extrav­a­gant use of feath­ers to Etro’s sig­na­ture prints, the rich affair brought forth quite the avid imag­i­na­tion. Begin­ning the show with evening­wear, monot­one bro­cade gave way to not only richer prints, but feath­ers turned out as jack­ets, scarves, ties and other pieces. From the dark palette of gray and black to a sam­pling of the warm sun’s rays, Etro explored the color spec­trum, even going as far as a fiery red. From over­coat and vest to shoes, the devil was in the details. Mas­ter­fully mix­ing prints and tex­tures, the col­lec­tion was pre­sented with per­son­al­ity, depth and ulti­mately the fine qual­i­ties of the modern-​​day gentleman.

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Gucci Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Fine & Dandy–Gucci cre­ative direc­tor Frida Gian­nini looks to the nine­teenth cen­tury for the inspi­ra­tion of her lat­est col­lec­tion. Mix­ing var­i­ous ref­er­ences, Gian­nini arrived at what she refers to as Bohemian Grunge. If course with no expense spared, the Gucci man was sent on this path with the ideal trap­pings for a luxe fall sea­son. The vision of smart sim­plic­ity, crew­neck sweaters and mod­est jack­ets made for the per­fect con­tem­po­rary suit­ing state­ment while ornate flo­ral prints cre­ated a tapes­try of enrich­ment. Dress­ing pants and jack­ets for quite the sar­to­r­ial debut, Gucci’s prints were just one of the season’s trea­sured motifs. Work­ing with vel­vet, silk and bro­cade, the show was rounded out by a nod at aris­toc­racy, craft­ing pleated trousers and fit­ted jack­ets for the ulti­mate sea­son of luxury.

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