Y-​​3 Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Trans­lat­ing Trav­els–Lay­ing out car­pets for eclec­tic trav­els, Y-3’s youth geared up for an adven­tur­ous fall/​winter 2012 show­ing. With less atten­tion on the obvi­ous sports appro­pri­ate­ness of the label and more focus on tap­ping into Yohji Yamamoto’s unique design aes­thetic, relaxed sil­hou­ettes opened the door to roman­tic lay­ers. Blended with an urban twist, baggy fits cul­mi­nated in acces­si­ble gar­ments dec­o­rated with engag­ing prints. Built on a range of bil­low­ing trousers, casual shirts played the laid-​​back com­pan­ion piece to jack­ets and coats, con­structed as that per­fect fin­ish­ing piece. From struc­tured blaz­ers accented with printed strips to a jacket, cut from but­tery soft leather or an over­size boxy coat, Y-​​3 approached the sea­son with a cool apti­tude, deliv­er­ing a con­tem­po­rary flair, laced with a styl­ish finesse.

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Band of Outsiders Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Ol’ Santa Fe–Adapt­ing his prep­ster uni­form with the typ­i­cal cheek one has come to expect of Band of Out­siders, designer Scott Stern­berg vis­ited the south­west for the inspi­ra­tion of his lat­est show­ing. Set under the water­color painted sky, Sternberg’s pla­toon came out to play with all their smarts on dis­play. From evening wear to daily essen­tials, a col­lec­tion dressed in rich hues and accented with Navajo-​​inspired prints delighted. Sleepy loungewear pro­vided the quiet coun­ter­part to more pol­ished num­bers, rounded out by blaz­ers, crew­neck sweaters and fit­ted shirt­ing. Mean­while, cor­duroy reared its head with pants and jack­ets adding to a clas­sic Amer­i­cana image. Incor­po­rat­ing quilt­ing and shear­ling, care­fully con­structed out­er­wear added a tough exte­rior to more gen­tle touches such as tas­sel adorned knitwear. Alto­gether mix­ing gar­ments of a sub­dued mood with louder state­ment pieces, Band of Out­siders deliv­ered their finely tai­lored aes­thetic with a splash of south­west­ern nos­tal­gia to color the season.

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Robert Geller Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Eng­lish Punk–Find­ing the inspi­ra­tion of his lat­est col­lec­tion while lis­ten­ing to early eight­ies post-​​punk band The Sound, Robert Geller decided to usurp the clas­sic Eng­lish mode of style for a vehi­cle to fur­ther push his sig­na­ture design stan­dards. A war of the loose and fit­ted, the mild man­ners of the gen­tle­man and the rash ten­den­cies of youth meshed together for a delight­ful show­ing. Tack­ling var­i­ous inter­pre­ta­tions of knick­ers, casual sweats and volu­mi­nous trousers were brought forth for a lively show­ing. Armed with prints and the occa­sional splash of bold color, Geller’s col­lec­tion high­lighted a dynamic range of gar­ments as usual. Whether craft­ing a cozy grandpa’s cardi­gan or a belted coat, the lineup served up cov­eted pieces with smart details. Amongst tonal color block­ing, short-​​sleeved cable-​​knits and dip-​​dyed fab­rics, Robert Geller’s fall show­ing ush­ered in a sea­son of sophis­ti­cated but ener­getic pieces.

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Siki Im Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Ath­leti­cism for the Style Afi­cionado –Siki Im revis­its school days with a new col­lec­tion that draws its inspi­ra­tion from the gym. Don­ning sweat­bands and sneak­ers, the men of Siki Im hit the gym­na­sium turned run­way with a lineup that jux­ta­posed the fun sporty motif with acces­si­ble gar­ments. The parka was turned out in an over­size boxy cut, chan­nel­ing the vic­tory lap of a cham­pion with room for more del­i­cate pieces like a fan­tas­tic long cable-​​knit sweater, fur­nished in black. Mean­while, leg­gings, sweats and lay­ered pants made the per­fect com­pan­ion to vari­a­tions on the let­ter­man jacket. Blend­ing suit­ing with sports­wear, the over­all results were noth­ing short of genius. Pre­sent­ing the best of both worlds, Siki Im’s fall col­lec­tion tai­lored to the inter­ests of the cre­ative while res­onat­ing the fun­da­men­tal ideas of menswear.

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Alexandre Plokhov Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Dark Truce–Stag­ing his debut run­way show for his name­sake label, Alexan­dre Plokhov kicked off the evening with dark glam­our tak­ing the reigns. Cre­at­ing svelte fig­ures, clad in black, slen­der trousers came together with long skirts, paired with elon­gated tops. From a sleeve­less apron-​​cut blazer and asym­met­ri­cally fas­tened jacket to ultra-​​glam acces­sories that included both gloves and shawls, Plokhov treated the New York audi­ence with a rebel­lious gam­ble before show­ing a hand at more struc­tured wears. Loosely tai­lored, the pin-​​striped suit made an appear­ance, fea­tur­ing an off­beat sil­hou­ette … a fit­ted cropped jacket, plung­ing neck­line, com­plete with trousers fea­tur­ing a loosely draped crotch. Blend­ing suit­ing with tunics and knitwear, Plokhov made the return to more bold gar­ments by the collection’s end, exper­i­ment­ing with sil­hou­ettes and shape for a struc­tured uni­form, jux­ta­posed with slick leather for a strong final impression.

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Billy Reid Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

South­ern Charm–A pol­ished fall out­ing from Billy Reid details the whims of the mod­est gen­tle­man look­ing for all the right pieces with a spe­cial charm. Fur­nished in lush fab­ri­ca­tions with impec­ca­ble details, fall lay­ers pro­vide for the quaint and rugged. Employ­ing a lineup of semi-​​fitted trousers along­side tweed out­er­wear, cash­mere sweaters and sharp shirt­ing, a new wardrobe is fleshed out with com­plete trim­mings. Accented with fur and acces­sorized with the chance car­ryall or leather footwear, Billy Reid’s col­lec­tion prompts the con­tin­u­ance of a sound per­spec­tive that puts the time­less hero first, whether its tai­lored suit­ing or knitwear, ready to be worn in.

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