Givenchy Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Amer­i­can Splen­dor–Givenchy cre­ative direc­tor Ric­cardo Tisci looked to the stars and stripes to dress his uni­form for the sea­son. Mino­taurs tamed, Givenchy’s men paraded down the run­way with dec­o­rated hoop in nose. From somber black ensem­bles, dressed with a ver­sion of the Amer­i­can flag to skirts and knits adorned with stars, the season’s theme came loud and strong. Revis­it­ing past col­lec­tions and bor­row­ing their stand­out pieces, rang­ing from leg­gings to boots, the new fac­tor was lim­ited, but embell­ish­ment in full effect. Embrac­ing an earthy brown, Givenchy toiled with mosaic prints when not run­ning its gam­ble through red, blue and white. Encrusted with studs, sequins and stars, the con­ver­gence of sharp tai­lor­ing and sports­wear was at once the same Givenchy of recent mem­ory that has dom­i­nated the hiphop landscape.

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John Galliano Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Gang­ster Lore–Look­ing to the days of pro­hi­bi­tion for the inspi­ra­tion of his sec­ond out­ing for John Gal­liano, cre­ative direc­tor Bill Gayt­ten honed in on char­ac­ters, rang­ing from gang­sters and the law estab­lish­ment to Amer­i­can sports-​​stars. Empow­ered by the stigma of a gang­ster, the col­lec­tion was off to a strong start with over­size sil­hou­ettes ush­er­ing in the double-​​breasted suit and fine coats of fur. Turn­ing to ref­er­ences by J.C Leyen­decker and Nor­man Rock­well, the baggy trousers of America’s infa­mous king­pins were closely fol­lowed by Gaytten’s noto­ri­ous band of hench­men. Youth­ful, cold and belted in for a show­down with the law, the men­ac­ing were met with hues of army green, dress­ing the avi­a­tor jacket, a mil­i­tary jacket, com­plete with epaulettes and other heroic pieces. Caught in the mid­dle of the two fac­tions and bring­ing the show to a close were John Galliano’s sports heroes, reveal­ing a pol­ished evening wardrobe, sequined and gen­er­ally more fitted.

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Comme des Garçons Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Androg­yny Now–Hid­den under a mop of jet black disheveled hair, the boys of Comme des Garçons told a tale of unadul­ter­ated rebel­lion. Fash­ions for the ele­gant punk, a long coat, pulled in at the waist deliv­ered charm in quaint vari­eties, rang­ing from polka dots and somber black to dis­creet etch­ings. Com­ple­mented with pleated skirts and cape jack­ets, large flo­ral prints made a divine state­ment, know­ing no bounds and lend­ing Rei Kawakubo’s mis­fit a soft touch, fused with mod­er­ate angst. Fin­ished with large bows tied at the neck and petite heels, ready for the cat­walk, Comme des Garçons deliv­ered a wel­comed col­lec­tion of means and mode.

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Yves Saint Laurent Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Leather’s Gen­tle­man–Craft­ing a uni­form from leather, Yves Saint Lau­rent cre­ative direc­tor Ste­fano Pilati looked to a sleek new wardrobe to out­fit his man for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Tak­ing the more fit­ted road this time around with sub­tle ges­tures at drap­ing, the col­lec­tion mor­phed from tai­lored and refined to ensem­bles infused with a mod­ern edge. Fea­tur­ing crisp lines, over­coats in char­coal and black bal­anced out provoca­tive under­tak­ings, rang­ing from pleated leather trousers to a waist­coat lined with fur. Tran­si­tion­ing to a loose, slouchy moment with long-​​sleeved shirt­ing that at once felt futur­is­tic, leather again became the prime focus with pure unsat­u­rated pieces end­ing the show with a youth­ful flair.

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Kris Van Assche Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Work­force–Show­ing one of his strongest col­lec­tions to date, Bel­gian designer Kris Van Ass­che turned to world affairs to take hold of his lat­est inspi­ra­tion. Cast­ing the banker and the work­ing class as his char­ac­ters of the sea­son, Van Ass­che took his stead­fast pen­chant for suit­ing to a new dimen­sion. Evok­ing a cer­tain ele­gance that felt fresh, men of a roman­tic imag­i­na­tion breezed by the cat­walk. For an ele­ment so fre­quently referred to, Van Assche’s turn to the work­er­swear aes­thetic prompted a regal qual­ity when blended with his skills in con­struc­tion and drap­ing. Relaxed trousers, cut to a fine art floated by while more fre­quented items like the bomber jacket felt deci­sively urban. Jux­ta­posed with knits that fell like a dream, in a sea­son with so much focus on suit­ing, Kris Van Assche’s fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion exe­cuted the fun­da­men­tal with such ease and difference.

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Junya Watanabe Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

At Home–Sea­son after sea­son, the work­ing man is Junya Watanabe’s cham­pi­oned hero with gar­ments geared towards a straight­for­ward appli­ca­tion of the clas­sics. A pure aes­thetic, impen­e­tra­ble by trends, the voice of the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son is sim­ple. Hit­ting the cat­walk, the man of Junya Watan­abe boils down his nec­es­sary pieces to a pair of pants, a jacket and a shirt. From denim to suede, relaxed fits are adorned with braces and dressed with color block­ing in muted hues. With flan­nel and plaid weigh­ing in heav­enly, Junya Watanabe’s lat­est col­lec­tion is at once reas­sur­ing and com­plete with charm.

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