J.W. Anderson Fall/​Winter 2012 | London Fashion Week

Fun, Games & Shock–Explo­sive col­ors, pat­terns and shapes burst forth with J.W. Anderson’s lat­est show­ing dur­ing Lon­don Fash­ion Week. Bring­ing an eccen­tric taste palette to the sea­son, Anderson’s fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion reads as the insane inter­sec­tion between an idea of retro per­fec­tion and future utopia with a sports­wear vibe thrown in for good mea­sure. Turn­ing up the dial and hold­ing no bar­res, com­mit­ment goes a long way as mesh col­lar­less jack­ets are matched by crew­neck sweaters with a larger than life win­dow­pane print. Mean­while, trousers in inter­est­ing fab­ri­ca­tions bare a fan­tas­ti­cally awk­ward flair. Con­tin­u­ing an atten­tion gar­ner­ing dia­logue, quilt­ing takes cen­ter stage, ush­er­ing in a range of jack­ets, skirts, pants and acces­sories. Zany to say the least, under­neath the con­tained chaos, Ander­son pulls off a choice selec­tion of clothes, par­tic­u­larly out­er­wear, cut­ting won­der­ful sil­hou­ettes for the fall.

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James Long Fall/​Winter 2012 | London Fashion Week

Earth Mat­ter–Look­ing to the work of Cana­dian pho­tog­ra­pher Edward Bur­tyn­sky for inspi­ra­tion, James Long found a rocky ref­er­ence after revis­it­ing Quar­ries. Trans­lat­ing stones and debris into a fan­tas­tic col­lec­tion start­ing point with fine tex­tures and rich col­ors, Long deliv­ered a visual treat. Hip and youth­ful, the range’s first sig­na­ture marker belonged to low slung trousers, crafted in volu­mi­nous fits. Paired with pan­eled out­er­wear, many fab­ri­ca­tions and prints came together, cre­at­ing sub­tle gra­di­ents and worn fac­tions. Weav­ing in a knit like no other, Long’s trade­mark made a strong impres­sion with del­i­cately exe­cuted pieces offer­ing a fierce point of view, whether paired with a tas­selled scarf or con­structed as a min­i­mal twin­set. Alto­gether, a cool effort for the designer, the col­lec­tion proved a suc­cess, exud­ing a unique effort­less atti­tude, com­ple­mented by excel­lent con­ti­nu­ity and workmanship.

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Tim Coppens Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

The Active Uni­form–Tread­ing a fine path for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son, Tim Cop­pens turns to the film Drive for inspi­ra­tion. Fil­ter­ing menswear fun­da­men­tals through a course, asso­ci­ated with rac­ing and hockey, tai­lor­ing is relaxed and moods var­ied. Option­ing fit­ted trousers and a more laid­back sil­hou­ette, found in jog­ging pants, casual and for­mal iden­ti­ties coex­ist. The ground­ing force to knitwear and jack­ets, a sporty aes­thetic is adapted for Coppen’s new uni­form. Sleeves are zip­pered, leather insets embraced and strong lines incor­po­rated for a detailed fin­ish to an evolv­ing season.

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New York Fashion Week Casting Call : The Booked Edition by Conan Thai

New York City … The Board of New Faces … Stay Tuned …

Patrik Ervell Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Min­i­mal Unrest–Dis­rupt­ing the lines of Patrik Ervell’s trade­mark suit­ing, dis­rup­tion set in with the label’s hero strik­ing a chord for rebel­lion. Weav­ing in gar­ments that sur­pris­ingly gave the col­lec­tion an urban edge, Ervell’s man marched on as quilted out­er­wear took up the part of pro­tec­tive gear and tech­ni­cal fab­rics caved into the mod­ern age. Echo­ing mil­i­tant sen­ti­ments with pieces sway­ing from struc­tured and fit­ted to loose, a range that included sharp shirt­ing, a grounded series of trousers and an evolv­ing array of jack­ets stole the show, set­ting the tone for a seri­ous fall with an eye for strong style.

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Simon Spurr Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Eng­lish Root­ing–Look­ing for the foun­da­tion of his fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion, Simon Spurr turned to images of Lon­don by Robert Frank. Tak­ing into account early twen­ti­eth cen­tury style and head­ing down a mod­ern course, ref­er­ences that include Tommy Nutter’s rein­ter­preted suit of the 1960’s come into play as Spurr dis­sects suit­ing for a rel­e­vant edge. Bring­ing together rich bur­gundy, brown, navy and other solid col­ors for a col­lec­tion dressed in plaids and tweeds, sub­tle updates were intro­duced. From leather trousers and a mag­ni­fied hounds tooth print to a sig­na­ture pen­chant for fab­ric insets, Simon Spurr’s lat­est efforts resulted in a sound show­ing, high­light­ing a sar­to­r­ial flair jux­ta­posed with mod­ern sentiments.

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