Acne Fall 2011 | Paris Fashion Week

Fol­low­ing up on last season’s pre­sen­ta­tion with a fall debut on the Parisian cat­walk, Acne looked to a higher edu­ca­tion for an unusual change of pace. Grav­i­tat­ing towards the anti-​​trend, Acne cre­ative direc­tor Jonny Johans­son offered a relaxed take on the suit, look­ing to infuse the mature standby with the label’s youth­ful touch. Break­ing with the monot­ony of the two-​​piece suit, the col­lec­tion seam­lessly mixed in sep­a­rates, rang­ing from long coats and lay­ered tops to sweat­shirts, encom­pass­ing a casual tour of the world’s fash­ion capitals.

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Thom Browne Fall 2011 | Paris Fashion Week

Aban­don­ing his trade­mark skinny suit and stag­ing a lav­ish feast for fall’s pro­duc­tion of a show, Thom Browne took guests on a trip back to colo­nial days. While mod­els dined on slim pick­ings, Browne served up a gen­er­ous help­ing of coor­di­nated sep­a­rates with a focus on vol­ume. From puffed sleeves and wide-​​fitted knick­ers to trail­ing trains, the col­lec­tion brought forth the typ­i­cal drama ten­fold. Although inten­sive work with sil­hou­ettes may have stolen the show, shear­ling, mohair and wool formed a rich wardrobe of lay­ers, ready to be unpacked for yet another dynamic sea­son from Thom Browne.

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Yigal Azrouël Fall 2011 | Paris Fashion Week

Yigal Azrouël joins Phillip Lim in chang­ing venues from New York to Paris for his lat­est show­ing. Blend­ing his casual aes­thetic with mil­i­taris­tic aspi­ra­tions, Azrouël show­cased a dis­tinc­tive uni­form of lay­ered dark hues. Decon­struct­ing smart essen­tials, a halved tie and button-​​down made quite the stir with a shrunken col­lar and the jux­ta­po­si­tion of strik­ingly mod­ern knits as well as out­er­wear. Alto­gether show­cas­ing an effort­less style and a push for more for­mal­ity, Yigal Azrouël’s fall 2011 col­lec­tion came together with an effec­tive edit of the label’s short narrative.

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Paul Smith Fall 2011 | Paris Fashion Week

Armed with galac­tic aspi­ra­tions and a pen­chant for rock ‘n’ roll styles, Paul Smith imag­ined an eclec­tic future for his man. Ready for a jour­ney to the moon, pants accented with zip­pers were paired with psy­che­delic prints for a fun fall adven­ture. Tak­ing the typ­i­cal blue­print of a Paul Smith col­lec­tion and ampli­fy­ing the details, lapels as well as hems found a dras­tic makeover with for­eign cuts and a touch of moon dust. Pump­ing up the vol­ume as a nod to space­suits but still keep­ing a tidy shape, Paul Smith’s quirky fall out­ing no doubt impressed, com­ing to the per­fect com­ple­tion with futur­is­tic neck­laces as the per­fect accessory.

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Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2011 | Paris Fashion Week

Turn­ing the season’s six­ties inspi­ra­tions inside out, there was def­i­nitely sub­ver­sive ele­ments at work for Yves Saint Lau­rent cre­ative direc­tor Ste­fano Pilati’s lat­est col­lec­tion. Play­ing a mis­chie­vous hand at mod­esty, Pilati blended a for­mal out­ing with his exag­ger­ated sil­hou­ettes for a cheeky ten­sion of pieces. From relaxed to fit­ted in terms of shape and a shift in details, rang­ing from a lack of lapels to enlarged lapels, the col­lec­tion became a game of chang­ing ele­ments. Regard­less of direc­tion, fall’s lineup exer­cised restraint for a cohe­sive show­ing of rigid for­mal­ity unpacked.

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Lanvin Fall 2011 | Paris Fashion Week

Opt­ing for a sea­son of clas­sics for his lat­est show­ing, Lan­vin cre­ative direc­tor Lucas Ossendri­jver had a sim­ple pur­pose at hand. Bring sub­tle shifts of moder­nity to lux­u­ri­ous sta­ples while high­light­ing the Lan­vin man in an iconic stet­son. Ready to take the plunge with bungee cords as the key accent, Lanvin’s man hit the car­peted cat­walk with a solemn demeanor and end­less cool. Tak­ing in the fine details, Ossendri­jver ener­gized menswear essen­tials with vol­ume and an atten­tion to lines. For the easy knit, a dropped asym­met­ri­cal line made the standby fresh again, while trousers took on a life of their own with smooth bil­low­ing sil­hou­ettes. Mean­while, over­size coats boasted con­cealed but­tons and raw edges. Employ­ing sheen fab­rics and a chic bow-​​tie, the Lan­vin man was ready for a fine evening out when not uti­liz­ing other tech­ni­cal fab­rics for the spon­ta­neous out­door excur­sion. One part ele­gance and another adven­ture, Ossendrijver’s fall col­lec­tion came together with a well exe­cuted vision for a con­tem­po­rary take on the clas­sics with Lanvin’s sig­na­ture style.

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