Kenzo Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Kenzo Work­day–Play­ing it safe for their debut col­lec­tion, new Kenzo cre­ative direc­tors Carol Lim and Hum­berto Leon, revealed a sea­son right off the con­veyor belt. Dec­o­rated in bright, youth­ful prints, the tai­lored trap­pings of the Kenzo man came out to play. From fit­ted quilted jack­ets and laid-​​back sweat­shirts to the odd knick­knacks, sports­wear fueled the col­lec­tion. Hon­ing in on a relaxed aes­thetic that achieved a bal­ance of casual sophis­ti­ca­tion and nov­elty, Lim and Leon rep­re­sented the quirky sen­ti­ments of the clas­sic man.

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Dior Homme Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Com­bat­ive Fash­ion–Fol­low­ing an impres­sive show­ing for his name­sake, Kris Van Ass­che returned to the run­way for his lat­est col­lec­tion for Dior Homme. Another inspir­ing lineup for the sea­son, Van Ass­che let the focus on tai­lor­ing take a back­seat with a fully fleshed out motif that empha­sized sports­wear with a mil­i­taris­tic flair. Hid­den under caps and shades, the men of Dior took to the run­way with a strong stance on suit­ing, giv­ing way to more relaxed pieces. Don­ning low slung trousers and over­size out­er­wear, cut to max­i­mize pow­er­ful move­ment, gar­ments in an army green gave the sea­son a life dra­mat­i­cally dif­fer­ent from pre­vi­ous col­lec­tions. Play­ing with shear­ling, pip­ing and tech­ni­cal fab­rics, crisp com­bat­ive sil­hou­ettes were at once fresh, mark­ing a suc­cess­ful over­all out­ing for Dior Homme.

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Givenchy Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Amer­i­can Splen­dor–Givenchy cre­ative direc­tor Ric­cardo Tisci looked to the stars and stripes to dress his uni­form for the sea­son. Mino­taurs tamed, Givenchy’s men paraded down the run­way with dec­o­rated hoop in nose. From somber black ensem­bles, dressed with a ver­sion of the Amer­i­can flag to skirts and knits adorned with stars, the season’s theme came loud and strong. Revis­it­ing past col­lec­tions and bor­row­ing their stand­out pieces, rang­ing from leg­gings to boots, the new fac­tor was lim­ited, but embell­ish­ment in full effect. Embrac­ing an earthy brown, Givenchy toiled with mosaic prints when not run­ning its gam­ble through red, blue and white. Encrusted with studs, sequins and stars, the con­ver­gence of sharp tai­lor­ing and sports­wear was at once the same Givenchy of recent mem­ory that has dom­i­nated the hiphop landscape.

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John Galliano Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Gang­ster Lore–Look­ing to the days of pro­hi­bi­tion for the inspi­ra­tion of his sec­ond out­ing for John Gal­liano, cre­ative direc­tor Bill Gayt­ten honed in on char­ac­ters, rang­ing from gang­sters and the law estab­lish­ment to Amer­i­can sports-​​stars. Empow­ered by the stigma of a gang­ster, the col­lec­tion was off to a strong start with over­size sil­hou­ettes ush­er­ing in the double-​​breasted suit and fine coats of fur. Turn­ing to ref­er­ences by J.C Leyen­decker and Nor­man Rock­well, the baggy trousers of America’s infa­mous king­pins were closely fol­lowed by Gaytten’s noto­ri­ous band of hench­men. Youth­ful, cold and belted in for a show­down with the law, the men­ac­ing were met with hues of army green, dress­ing the avi­a­tor jacket, a mil­i­tary jacket, com­plete with epaulettes and other heroic pieces. Caught in the mid­dle of the two fac­tions and bring­ing the show to a close were John Galliano’s sports heroes, reveal­ing a pol­ished evening wardrobe, sequined and gen­er­ally more fitted.

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Comme des Garçons Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Androg­yny Now–Hid­den under a mop of jet black disheveled hair, the boys of Comme des Garçons told a tale of unadul­ter­ated rebel­lion. Fash­ions for the ele­gant punk, a long coat, pulled in at the waist deliv­ered charm in quaint vari­eties, rang­ing from polka dots and somber black to dis­creet etch­ings. Com­ple­mented with pleated skirts and cape jack­ets, large flo­ral prints made a divine state­ment, know­ing no bounds and lend­ing Rei Kawakubo’s mis­fit a soft touch, fused with mod­er­ate angst. Fin­ished with large bows tied at the neck and petite heels, ready for the cat­walk, Comme des Garçons deliv­ered a wel­comed col­lec­tion of means and mode.

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Yves Saint Laurent Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Leather’s Gen­tle­man–Craft­ing a uni­form from leather, Yves Saint Lau­rent cre­ative direc­tor Ste­fano Pilati looked to a sleek new wardrobe to out­fit his man for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Tak­ing the more fit­ted road this time around with sub­tle ges­tures at drap­ing, the col­lec­tion mor­phed from tai­lored and refined to ensem­bles infused with a mod­ern edge. Fea­tur­ing crisp lines, over­coats in char­coal and black bal­anced out provoca­tive under­tak­ings, rang­ing from pleated leather trousers to a waist­coat lined with fur. Tran­si­tion­ing to a loose, slouchy moment with long-​​sleeved shirt­ing that at once felt futur­is­tic, leather again became the prime focus with pure unsat­u­rated pieces end­ing the show with a youth­ful flair.

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