Paris Fashion Week | Gaspard Yurkievich Fall 2010

Gas­pard Yurkievich’s man is con­fi­dently on the move as the designer makes haste to decon­struct the suit. Scrap­ping tra­di­tion, Yurkievich reassem­bles his own suit, apply­ing dif­fer­ent col­or­ways and embell­ish­ments to fash­ion his mod­ern cre­ation. Main­tain­ing rel­a­tively nor­mal upper pro­por­tions, Yurkievich approaches trousers with two dom­i­nant pleats, a con­trolled, but relaxed fit and a time­less grace. Alto­gether, the fall col­lec­tion turns suit­ing inside out, only to come out with a uni­form look that within mod­ern con­text makes per­fect sense.

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Paris Fashion Week | Issey Miyake Fall 2010

As a major­ity of design­ers avoid color like its the plague, Issey Miyake cre­ative direc­tor Dai Fuji­wara deliv­ers a refresh­ing jolt of color. Not afraid to embrace bold col­ors and prints, the gar­ments of Fujiwara’s man exude a chic lived-​​in qual­ity. Uti­liz­ing dart­ing and wrin­kled fab­rics, unique gar­ments are cre­ated that con­vey a cer­tain light­ness, while also being appro­pri­ate for both fall and peri­ods of transition.

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Paris Fashion Week | Alexis Mabille Fall 2010

Alexis Mabille’s man is at a cross­roads. On one hand, he val­ues the clas­sic stand­bys, but at the same time he is ready to accept the mod­ern age. His attempt at blend­ing the two ele­ments results in Mabille’s sec­ond Parisian show­ing that offers both style and rel­a­tive shock value. Cre­at­ing an array of sophis­ti­cated looks updated with the addi­tion of leg­gings, Mabille goes the extra mile to show­case what his man is wear­ing under all those clothes. Equipped with sock garters and sus­penders for the ideal under­gar­ment acces­sories, Mabille’s man is provoca­tive, but at the sur­face, a rep­re­sen­ta­tion of the mod­ern evo­lu­tion of lux­ury. Push­ing for­ward, luxe fab­rics still hold a cer­tain impor­tance, but Mabille shows a par­tic­u­lar fash­ion sense that is more about adding spe­cial details to the ordi­nary gar­ments that suit every­day life.

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Paris Fashion Week | Juun J Fall 2010

Tak­ing shape on the run­way this sea­son, Juun J show­cases a more struc­tured per­spec­tive. Blend­ing a keen eye for details with a pro­gres­sive thirst, vivid col­ors meet a sta­tic sea of black and gray for a dynamic pre­sen­ta­tion. Bal­anc­ing wide and nar­row pro­por­tions, spe­cial atten­tion is shared between bil­low­ing sleeves and trousers, while dra­matic hoods fur­ther the collection’s momen­tum. Alto­gether, Juun J trans­ports his man to a world where he has to show a hard exte­rior, but beneath rests soft lay­ers of care and thought­ful­ness. From the sub­tle asym­met­ri­cal cut and leather insert to added length and vol­ume, Juun J suc­cess­fully bridges the gap between the acces­si­ble and the inventive.

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Paris Fashion Week | Viktor & Rolf Fall 2010

Bor­row­ing this season’s theme from the Rolling Stones song Paint It Black, design­ers Vik­tor Horsting and Rolf Sno­eren bring their sig­na­ture menswear quirks to the run­way for the first time. Unveil­ing a refined col­lec­tion based in a dark color palette, points of inter­est are spo­radic as the Vik­tor & Rolf man is doused in paint. Always alert of this dan­ger, the col­lec­tion pro­vides for a jux­ta­pos­ing of the for­mal and casual, rang­ing from quilt­ing and trousers with elas­ti­cated cuffs to the full on din­ner jacket. Stag­ing a small show for the first time around, Vik­tor & Rolf played it cau­tious, but with added con­fi­dence and a pen­chant for the absurd, the sky is the limit with the future bod­ing well.

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Paris Fashion Week | Fall 2010 Tentative Schedule

Thurs­day, Jan­u­ary 21, 2010
10:30 Alexis Mabille
11:30 Issey Miyake
12:30 Fran­cisco Van Ben­thum
13:30 Juun J.
14:30 Louis Vuit­ton
16:00 Gas­pard Yurkievich
17:00 Jean Paul Gaultier
18:00 Smalto
19:00 Dries Va Noten
20:00 Julius

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