Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Break­ing the Fourth Wall–Jean Paul Gaultier smacks against a brick wall for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son and the results are fan­tas­tic. With dress uni­verses col­lid­ing as usual for the designer, the col­lec­tion finds its voice in the cul­mi­na­tion of dap­per ele­gance, rural sim­plic­ity and urban deca­dence. Begin­ning the show with suit­ing and sports­wear blended seam­lessly together and dressed in a strik­ing brick print, Gaultier spent the remain­der of the col­lec­tion demon­strat­ing that glitz can co-​​exist with every­day func­tion. From tat­tooed shirt­ing and cam­ou­flaged suit­ing sep­a­rates to more com­mon gar­ments such as the hooded sweat­shirt, Jean Paul Gaultier deliv­ered char­ac­ter in spades, laced with sub­stance and style.

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Louis Vuitton Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Fash­ion Land­scape–In search of the season’s inspi­ra­tion, Louis Vuit­ton turns their atten­tion to the life of fash­ion illus­tra­tor Anto­nio Lopez. A con­ver­gence of motifs of the sev­en­ties and eight­ies, the fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion comes together seam­lessly with suit­ing, much like their peers play­ing a sig­nif­i­cant role in the dynam­ics of the range. Found out­side tai­lored bliss that brushes upon double-​​breasted coats in camel, duo-​​toned suit­ing and pin-​​striped trousers, the renowned fash­ion house grav­i­tates towards a more com­fort­able expe­ri­ence with blan­kets on sale, price tag and all, being paraded as fan­tas­ti­cally draped coats with the Louis Vuit­ton mono­gram in plain sight. Tak­ing the fash­ion cap­i­tals by storm, from Paris to Tokyo, the Louis Vuit­ton col­lec­tion wraps up nicely with var­ied influ­ences that blend sar­to­r­ial genius with cre­ative success.

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Viktor & Rolf Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The House of Shape–Head­ing into the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son, Vik­tor & Rolf chan­nel the East­ern Bloc for a seri­ous col­lec­tion with its share of the design duo’s acclaimed quirk. Serv­ing a buf­fet of leather offer­ings, from trousers to over­alls, it is the out­er­wear that steals the show in a sea­son, strong on shape. Con­structed and fit­ted to per­fec­tion, smart lay­ers show­case dif­fer­ent pro­por­tions at work. From boxy to sleek and svelte, menswear clas­sics are given edge with boxy shoul­ders mak­ing a strong impact among prac­ti­cal pieces.

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Rick Owens Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Dark Arts–Rick Owens’ man finds him­self some­where in between fenc­ing and rac­ing for the designer’s lat­est chap­ter. Kick­ing off the sea­son with fit­ted ensem­bles, high-​​waist trousers made the per­fect com­pan­ion to nar­row tops, cut to per­fec­tion. Mov­ing on to suit­ing as a more tra­di­tional turn for Owens, jack­ets were fas­tened with one but­ton for an asym­met­ri­cal close, while the fit on trousers indi­cated a sub­tle shift in the col­lec­tion. Embrac­ing a wider sil­hou­ette for trousers and ready­ing the run­way for his beloved work with leather, a cropped jacket appeared with a fan­tas­tic sil­hou­ette, that gained momen­tum against later volu­mi­nous looks that employed quilt­ing and other tech­niques for a strong dark finish.

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Yohji Yamamoto Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Raw Sophis­ti­cate–Yohji Yamamoto has always pos­sessed the fine abil­ity of being able to take hon­est gar­ments and lend them a regal spirit, whether cut from lux­u­ri­ous fab­ri­ca­tions or crafted on the mend with any­thing but riches on the mind. The fall/​winter 2012 sea­son is no dif­fer­ent. Some­how, Yamamoto cre­ates a roman­tic fig­ure of his man, dress­ing down his sig­na­ture loosely fit­ted suit­ing with over­size wraps in muted earth tones. Enjoy­ing a lit­tle humor with floppy pipe top hats, a sub­tle cheeky image is jux­ta­posed with the somber mood, cre­ated by out­er­wear boast­ing mil­i­taris­tic insignia. Belong­ing to the same var­ied world, ele­gance is abound with coats bar­ing gold but­tons, prim white neck ties and an inter­est­ing take on the Lon­don banker. Alto­gether the per­fect style palette for the sea­son, Yamamoto once again excels with an aes­thetic that once again feels fresh.

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Mugler Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Chang­ing Agenda–Tread­ing closer to the con­ser­v­a­tive rule­book, Mugler takes a more stream­lined approach to the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Grav­i­tat­ing towards the suit as the collection’s core base, a bet­ter apti­tude for wear­able gar­ments is exe­cuted but a bold spirit still remains. Cast in black, bur­gundy and mid­night blue, the man of Mugler is placed at a cross­roads. While sev­eral jack­ets, capes and other fine items show a hand at tai­lor­ing and fine fit, oth­ers tend to mask sub­stance with style. With silk and worked fab­ri­ca­tions mak­ing their debut and dis­sect­ing designs, Mugler is at once a foot for­ward with inter­est, but a mixed sig­nal when arriv­ing at a cohe­sive union of style, con­struc­tion and intent.

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