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Entitled “Ramblin’ Rose”, Claude Grant’s spring 2010 collection was inspired by the prospects of creating a “street smart androgyny.” Although a menswear line, Grant felt that the collection had a romantic spirit perfect for both genders and decided to reflect that in his lookbook with the casting of both a male and female model. With this in mind, the collection approaches the season with ease and finesse, opting for light clean pieces. Revolving around a relaxed fit, separates embrace a free spirited nature that is organic and approachable. Rolled shorts of denim feature loose fray, while oversize tanks and shirting options are complete with subtle, but distinct embellishments. And if Grant’s soft laid-back approach is not captivating enough, his spring collection is rounded out by a charming leather jacket, cut short with enlarged lapels. Altogether, Grant offers bespoke garments of integrity that have a certain quality that make the wearer feel at home and always in vogue.
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Oak offers the latest from Claude Grant. The selection is an excellent introduction to Grant’s flirtation with American menswear. Cropped or with a high waist, Grant keeps his lines sleek and the proportions playfully oversize for a chic spring look.
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Claude Grant’s inspirations are wide and varied. However, the designer feels that each collection he has done up to date has been “a direct progression from the previous one and some vague notion of what American sportswear means to [him].” For the latest collection, Grant “was inspired by both classic athletic wear as well as formal attire.” Exploring the middle ground between the two styles, Grant recognized that this was not a new concept, but enjoyed the opportunity to do things his way and offer his own distinct vision.
The result is a modern sense of American menswear that exudes a cool refinement. Grant offers stylized comfort with a luxurious array of curved hemlines, kimono styled sleeves, mock turtle necks, denim trousers, velvet, and relaxed blazers. Grant may explore a novel concept, but what he offers is a refreshing perspective. Effortlessly, Grant breaks with traditional American menswear by introducing new proportions and silhouettes. However, at the same time, he manages to maintain an understated, yet endearing collection without pretense.
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The Grant Way
Spring 2009 is Claude Grant’s second collection, yet the label has already arrived at a chic new level that is effortless. Just like his fall collection, Grant’s spring collection is one of the most cohesive collections without being dull. With a collection that is an excellent example of embracing the oversized aesthetic in a well-balanced way, the silhouettes and proportions are perfected to the finest degree. Claude Grant is definitely one designer to watch as his future is destined to be bright.
Q&A with Claude Grant
What is your fashion background?
I have never had the opportunity to work for someone else. I’ve interned however while in college with John Bartlett. After leaving John Bartlett, I opened a studio as a small bespoke men’s service in the West Village. The retail line was launched with the Fall 2008 collection.
How do you approach the silhouette when designing?
I don’t have a formula approaching my silhouette. I do favor certain shapes at present for my garments, but have been slightly altering them each season. Of course the season has a lot to do with selecting the color palette, but it is mainly dictated by the mood of the collection. I am however very partial to gray.
Comparing your first collection to your most recent collection, what would you say is the biggest difference?
It is slightly less traditional in construction. The pieces are also more lightweight. Summers are getting hotter and there is a movement towards lighter dressing in menswear that I would like to be a part of.
Is there a story you are trying to tell with your spring collection?
I suppose I try to suggest a story. Subtlety is very important to me when designing, among other things, so I prefer the pieces to speak softly, while (hopefully) saying something profound.
Describe your spring collection in adjectives.
Lightweight, simple, classic
Have you started work on the fall collection? What do you have in mind?
Yes I have started fall. Surprise is a valuable element, so I wont divulge much, but it is inspired by early 20th century America, college athletics, and jazz.
Pictures from Claude Grant
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