
Gianfranco Ferré’s latest collection makes up for its lack of spring-ready colors with its attention to the silhouette. Playing with both anti-fit and form-fitting silhouettes, the collection makes its statement in the form of elongated blazers. Similar to Jil Sander’s fall collection, several of the blazers feature sharp narrow shoulders and cinched waists. The difference here is that they actually compliment the male form instead of working against it. Working in the same fashion is the militaristic separates crafted in variants of green. Baggy and oversize, the details are minimal, the slate clean and the the styling options endless. The collection is an ongoing equation of pieces that play it soft or hard hitting like the PVC-based outerwear that compliments the stark rigidity of a predominantly black and white color palette with its focus on structure. Completing the collection is a hint of sheen and metallic silver as best showcased in the collection’s footwear.

Philipp Bierbaum photographed by Stefano Moro for
Gianfranco Ferré’s fall 2009 campaign

Campaign: GF by Gianfranco Ferré Spring 2009
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Models: Viggo Jonasson and Viktoriya Sasonkina
Trained as an architect prior to becoming a fashion designer, Gianfranco Ferré was known as the “architect of fashion”. Ferré’s signature womenswear collection was launched in 1978 and menswear followed suit in 1982, while his couture collection was introduced in 1986. Shape and structure were to be expected from the Italian designer, playing a dominant role in much Ferré’s designs. He was also known for his crisp lines and impeccable tailoring, with the white shirt becoming his signature piece. In 1989, Ferré was appointed as the head designer of Christian Dior. The engagement ended in 1997 and he was succeeded by John Galliano. With the passing of Gianfranco Ferré in 2007, the Italian label was taken over by designers, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. They remain true to the designs of the late Ferré, with geometric dresses for women and sharply tailored suits for men.