Olivier Borde Spring 2012

Locals Only–Head­ing into the spring 2012 sea­son, Olivier Borde looks to the surf­ing and skate cul­ture of Cal­i­for­nia and Aus­tralia for inspi­ra­tion. Embrac­ing a slouchy and relaxed sil­hou­ette, mod­ern streetwear is preva­lent in the lineup of casual tees, tai­lored shirt­ing and light­weight knits, all exe­cuted in lux­u­ri­ous Japan­ese fab­rics, vin­tage mil­i­tary sur­plus and fine Ital­ian cotton.

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Preview | Olivier Borde Fall 2010

Olivier Borde plays it extremely low-​​key next sea­son, opt­ing for semi-​​relaxed pro­por­tions that con­vey a cer­tain awk­ward­ness. Dressed down in neu­trals, the unas­sum­ing range thrives on func­tion with an array of inter­change­able shirt­ing, out­er­wear and mono­chro­matic suiting.

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Fall 2010 Preview | Olivier Borde

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Olivier Borde [Garde-​​Robe] Spring 2010

Con­tin­u­ing in a con­cep­tual vein, designer Olivier Borde’s spring 2010 col­lec­tion, Bru­tal­ity in Pale Col­ors is inspired by Pieter Hugo’s The Hyena Men “where the tran­quil feroc­ity of the ani­mal is held at the neck by young men.” The range also takes a nod from Jackie Nickerson’s Farm. Tak­ing to a spunky disheveled look, the col­lec­tion car­ries a youth­ful zest. How­ever, as demon­strated by the var­i­ous mod­els, the col­lec­tion remains acces­si­ble to a var­ied audi­ence of dif­fer­ent ages. The col­lec­tion proves that you are never old for a lit­tle wardrobe-​​related fun. Quirky mis­aligned flies fall in line with overall-​​inspired tops as bespoke denim com­pli­ments patch­ing and play­fully shrunken jack­ets. Young at heart, in Borde’s own words, the col­lec­tion rep­re­sents “the wild side of youth leashed.”

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Preview — Olivier Borde Fall 2009

Young label Olivier Borde [Garde-​​Robe] is still going strong as they pre­view their upcom­ing fall col­lec­tion. Falling nicely in line with their spring col­lec­tion, the new line is a nat­ural pro­gres­sion in aes­thetic, skill­fully blend­ing Amer­i­cana styling with con­tem­po­rary modes of fashion.

Pic­tures from ASVOF

Feature Label: Olivier Borde [Garde-​​Robe] Spring 2009

Ori­gins

This com­ing sea­son, Olivier Borde [Garde-​​Robe] debuts its first spring col­lec­tion. Behind the new label is Olivier Borde, who stud­ied fash­ion in Mont­pe­lier, France before going on to become the Cre­ative Direc­tor of ICHTHYS in Paris. Mov­ing to Lon­don in 2004, Borde “co-​​founded and co-​​designed the Charles Anas­tase 1979 line.  After part­ing ways with Charles, Borde began to work on his own menswear col­lec­tion.  Col­lab­o­rat­ing with his boyfriend/​partner, Heath Cal­len­der; who had worked in New York City as an Art Direc­tor and styl­ist, they “decided to dive right” in.  Their first ven­ture together would include doing a col­lec­tion for the Fes­ti­val d’Hyeres.  This ven­ture would result in Olivier Borde’s debut fall collection.

The Part­ner­ship

A cre­ative part­ner­ship is not for every­one, but some­how Borde and Cal­len­der find a way to make it work; com­pli­ment­ing each other per­fectly and draw­ing upon each other’s strengths.

The Fash­ion­isto: How does your part­ner­ship work?

Heath: In the begin­ning, we dis­cuss the influ­ences that are dic­tat­ing the next col­lec­tion. We spend time dis­cussing var­i­ous pho­tog­ra­phers, art­work and some­time his­tor­i­cal time frames. From there we begin to form ideas about what we think the col­lec­tion will become, and then we begin to think of the con­trast in vol­umes and pro­por­tions that we might want to explore.

Olivier: We both have sim­i­lar aes­thet­ics. How­ever, we some­times digress on cer­tain thing, which I think helps the process, and at the same time we have a great give and take of ideas about cer­tain aspects of the collection.

Heath: Olivier is the most gifted tai­lor and designer I have ever known and once he starts on a piece, he will come to me and we will dis­cuss the shape, cut, color etc and from there the gar­ment comes to its final form.

Intro­duc­ing Spring 2009

Borde’s first spring col­lec­tion is “inspired by the pho­tographs of Mike Dis­farmer and Richard Avedon’s The Amer­i­can West project and book.”  Inspi­ra­tion was also drawn from the “world of the ‘work­ing class’ and a bit of [the] hobo cul­ture of the 1920’s and 1930’s in the United States.”  Treat­ing each season’s inspi­ra­tion as a fil­ter, Borde and Cal­len­der rein­vent “clas­sic garde-​​robe pieces”.  In pace with the times, the spring col­lec­tion draws inspi­ra­tion from an era long gone, but moves for­ward with cropped jack­ets, leg­gings and wide sil­hou­et­ted bottoms.

Q&A

The Fash­ion­isto: Who are your fash­ion role mod­els?
Olivier: As far as design­ers Rai Kawakubo, Mar­tin Margiela and Ralph Lau­ren.
Heath: Also all of our friends and col­lab­o­ra­tors.
TF: Which fash­ion mag­a­zines or web­sites do you read/​visit reg­u­larly?
O: Fan­tas­tic Man, I-​​D, Dazed and Con­fused, Vogue Hommes, Paris Vogue, W, V, V man….this list could go on and on….
H: A mul­ti­tude of var­i­ous fash­ion blogs, men.style.com, The Sar­to­ri­al­ist, The Cut (on nymag.com), NYT Style and T Style.
TF: If you could dress any­one in the world, who would you like to dress?
O: Johnny Depp & Tilda Swinton

For more infor­ma­tion, please visit Olivier Borde [Garde-​​Robe]

Pic­tures from Olivier Borde [Garde-​​Robe]

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