
Adnan Djinovic debuted onto the runway for Fall/Winter 2010 walking Prada, Kenzo and Yves Saint Laurent, in Paris. After his impressive breakthrough, he quickly appeared on the pages of Vogue Hommes Japan and Dazed & Confused. Born in France, Adnan has since walked for Burberry, Jil Sander, Neil Barrett, Z Zegna and Lanvin.

The Taming of the Kid–agnès b. was in fine form this season. Executing a more precise collection than seasons past, commercial intent reigned, dialing down the quirky for a delightful outing with youthful fundamentals. Cleaned up for the season, suiting dressed in plaid and autumn hues provided for the season’s strong core. Tailored trousers, sometimes cuffed were pleated and cut at the ankle. Jackets came in the one-button and double-breasted variety with a sharp shirt and tie combo to finish off a look that was more professional. Meanwhile, the antics were not absent with leggings and shorts delivering great charm, when complemented by cropped capes, draped tunics and other bold pieces.

The Kenzo Workday–Playing it safe for their debut collection, new Kenzo creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, revealed a season right off the conveyor belt. Decorated in bright, youthful prints, the tailored trappings of the Kenzo man came out to play. From fitted quilted jackets and laid-back sweatshirts to the odd knickknacks, sportswear fueled the collection. Honing in on a relaxed aesthetic that achieved a balance of casual sophistication and novelty, Lim and Leon represented the quirky sentiments of the classic man.

Gangster Lore–Looking to the days of prohibition for the inspiration of his second outing for John Galliano, creative director Bill Gaytten honed in on characters, ranging from gangsters and the law establishment to American sports-stars. Empowered by the stigma of a gangster, the collection was off to a strong start with oversize silhouettes ushering in the double-breasted suit and fine coats of fur. Turning to references by J.C Leyendecker and Norman Rockwell, the baggy trousers of America’s infamous kingpins were closely followed by Gaytten’s notorious band of henchmen. Youthful, cold and belted in for a showdown with the law, the menacing were met with hues of army green, dressing the aviator jacket, a military jacket, complete with epaulettes and other heroic pieces. Caught in the middle of the two factions and bringing the show to a close were John Galliano’s sports heroes, revealing a polished evening wardrobe, sequined and generally more fitted.

Playing Fashion–Moschino’s knack for bold prints and colors collides with a traditional sense of menswear for a penetrating collection. Opening the show with bowler hats as well as suiting and tees printed with cobblestones, the season resonated with a nostalgic London flair. Making the gentleman relevant, the trappings of the distinguished blended with a cheeky use of wardrobe dissection for a new chapter. From patches on pants to exposed jacket seams, Moschino’s man was deconstructed and rebuilt, before emerging with vibrant colors and graffiti prints that lend refined elegance a quirky undertone.