Acne Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

23 January 2012, written by Carl



The Young Road to Luxury–Bringing Paris Fashion Week to a close, Swedish label Acne embarked on a collision course of young and old for a collection that peppered the classics with a free spirit. With layering playing a key component to the season’s wardrobe, interesting fabrications were utilized. From quilted shirting employed underneath a boxy short-sleeved sweatshirt to pleather worn with a formal overcoat, a rebellious quality was achieved with great subtleties. Piling on the sweaters and producing tops with varying sleeve lengths for the ultimate combination of pieces, Acne brought together tapered trousers, oversize blazers as well as suiting shorts for a highly wearable feat.

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Miharayasuhiro Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

22 January 2012, written by Carl



Coming Undone–Militaristic references and a sense of rugged elegance come together for Miharayasuhiro’s latest Parisian showing. Working around the idea of strong separates, structured items like the cropped peacoat are contrasted against oversize cargo pants. Accenting a somber sea of dark hues with a large plaid print, varying proportions are melded together. Layered, fine construction gives way to jackets with halved sleeves, camouflage suiting and a tailored sense of sportswear.

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Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

21 January 2012, written by Carl



Modern Youth Movement–Rebelling against the season, Raf Simons sent his men down the catwalk in shorts. With hair swept in faces and oversize hats, the classic suiting that has hit many a runway this season was turned on its side for a look decisively Simons. The double-breasted jacket, cut in charcoal felt delightfully casual. Mastering proportions, shirting cut larger made the unexpected layering piece to a tie and shirt combo. Working in mesh knits and tops, dressed in gradients, the Belgian designer created a collection of youth and ease, making for a delightful fall showing.

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Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

21 January 2012, written by Carl



Combative Fashion–Following an impressive showing for his namesake, Kris Van Assche returned to the runway for his latest collection for Dior Homme. Another inspiring lineup for the season, Van Assche let the focus on tailoring take a backseat with a fully fleshed out motif that emphasized sportswear with a militaristic flair. Hidden under caps and shades, the men of Dior took to the runway with a strong stance on suiting, giving way to more relaxed pieces. Donning low slung trousers and oversize outerwear, cut to maximize powerful movement, garments in an army green gave the season a life dramatically different from previous collections. Playing with shearling, piping and technical fabrics, crisp combative silhouettes were at once fresh, marking a successful overall outing for Dior Homme.

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Viktor & Rolf Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

19 January 2012, written by Carl



The House of Shape–Heading into the fall/winter 2012 season, Viktor & Rolf channel the Eastern Bloc for a serious collection with its share of the design duo’s acclaimed quirk. Serving a buffet of leather offerings, from trousers to overalls, it is the outerwear that steals the show in a season, strong on shape. Constructed and fitted to perfection, smart layers showcase different proportions at work. From boxy to sleek and svelte, menswear classics are given edge with boxy shoulders making a strong impact among practical pieces.

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