Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week
Modern Youth Movement–Rebelling against the season, Raf Simons sent his men down the catwalk in shorts. With hair swept in faces and oversize hats, the classic suiting that has hit many a runway this season was turned on its side for a look decisively Simons. The double-breasted jacket, cut in charcoal felt delightfully casual. Mastering proportions, shirting cut larger made the unexpected layering piece to a tie and shirt combo. Working in mesh knits and tops, dressed in gradients, the Belgian designer created a collection of youth and ease, making for a delightful fall showing.
Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week
Combative Fashion–Following an impressive showing for his namesake, Kris Van Assche returned to the runway for his latest collection for Dior Homme. Another inspiring lineup for the season, Van Assche let the focus on tailoring take a backseat with a fully fleshed out motif that emphasized sportswear with a militaristic flair. Hidden under caps and shades, the men of Dior took to the runway with a strong stance on suiting, giving way to more relaxed pieces. Donning low slung trousers and oversize outerwear, cut to maximize powerful movement, garments in an army green gave the season a life dramatically different from previous collections. Playing with shearling, piping and technical fabrics, crisp combative silhouettes were at once fresh, marking a successful overall outing for Dior Homme.
Viktor & Rolf Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week
The House of Shape–Heading into the fall/winter 2012 season, Viktor & Rolf channel the Eastern Bloc for a serious collection with its share of the design duo’s acclaimed quirk. Serving a buffet of leather offerings, from trousers to overalls, it is the outerwear that steals the show in a season, strong on shape. Constructed and fitted to perfection, smart layers showcase different proportions at work. From boxy to sleek and svelte, menswear classics are given edge with boxy shoulders making a strong impact among practical pieces.
Mugler Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week
Changing Agenda–Treading closer to the conservative rulebook, Mugler takes a more streamlined approach to the fall/winter 2012 season. Gravitating towards the suit as the collection’s core base, a better aptitude for wearable garments is executed but a bold spirit still remains. Cast in black, burgundy and midnight blue, the man of Mugler is placed at a crossroads. While several jackets, capes and other fine items show a hand at tailoring and fine fit, others tend to mask substance with style. With silk and worked fabrications making their debut and dissecting designs, Mugler is at once a foot forward with interest, but a mixed signal when arriving at a cohesive union of style, construction and intent.
Ports 1961 Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week
Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961’s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.
Dsquared² Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week
Scholarly Days–Dsquared² designers Dan and Dean Caten send their boys back to school for the fall/winter 2012 season. Bringing smarts to their signature staples, loosely slung denim was paired with light layers consisting of leather jackets, sweatshirts, button-downs and sweater vests. Accessorized with newsboy hats, duffels and backpacks, the season’s theme was a no-brainer. From goody two shoes prep to the sartorial bad boy, Dsquared² packed an easy punch with a relaxed wardrobe that eventually transitioned into more polished garments. Still applying their own handiwork to eveningwear, denim and sequins collided for a cheeky finish.
adrien sahores
Adrien Sahores had his breakout season in Spring/Summer 2010. He was an exclusive for Prada and walked for Givenchy, Raf Simons and even opened for Lanvin. He appeared in Prada’s Spring/Summer 2010 campaign and film, First Spring. Adrien has also starred in campaigns for Lanvin, Black Barrett by Neil Barrett and Yves Saint Laurent.
