Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

22 January 2012, written by Carl



Little House of Horrors–Gather a high voltage chair, a splash of the macabre and the American sportsman and you have Thom Browne’s latest creation. Stuffed into Browne’s little gray suit, a steroid-induced man appeared with bulging shoulders against a petite alter ego, infused with punk. While sweaters, cut from mohair made for a giant-sized impression, studs and safety pins decorated seams and hems. Injecting the varsity jacket with volume, classic standbys were treated to a whimsical retreat into the dark corners of Browne’s creative genius. Juxtaposed with mid-riff baring tops and garments in watermelon green and pink, the idea of classic menswear was torn to shreds and presented as Thom Browne’s latest fantasy, in some aspects wearable but at large a stirring gesture to sit back and take in.

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Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

21 January 2012, written by Carl



Combative Fashion–Following an impressive showing for his namesake, Kris Van Assche returned to the runway for his latest collection for Dior Homme. Another inspiring lineup for the season, Van Assche let the focus on tailoring take a backseat with a fully fleshed out motif that emphasized sportswear with a militaristic flair. Hidden under caps and shades, the men of Dior took to the runway with a strong stance on suiting, giving way to more relaxed pieces. Donning low slung trousers and oversize outerwear, cut to maximize powerful movement, garments in an army green gave the season a life dramatically different from previous collections. Playing with shearling, piping and technical fabrics, crisp combative silhouettes were at once fresh, marking a successful overall outing for Dior Homme.

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John Galliano Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

20 January 2012, written by Carl



Gangster Lore–Looking to the days of prohibition for the inspiration of his second outing for John Galliano, creative director Bill Gaytten honed in on characters, ranging from gangsters and the law establishment to American sports-stars. Empowered by the stigma of a gangster, the collection was off to a strong start with oversize silhouettes ushering in the double-breasted suit and fine coats of fur. Turning to references by J.C Leyendecker and Norman Rockwell, the baggy trousers of America’s infamous kingpins were closely followed by Gaytten’s notorious band of henchmen. Youthful, cold and belted in for a showdown with the law, the menacing were met with hues of army green, dressing the aviator jacket, a military jacket, complete with epaulettes and other heroic pieces. Caught in the middle of the two factions and bringing the show to a close were John Galliano’s sports heroes, revealing a polished evening wardrobe, sequined and generally more fitted.

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Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

19 January 2012, written by Carl



Simplicity in Color–First to hit the catwalk for Issey Miyake was a lineup of textured knits and trousers, cut loose with significant pleating. Delivering quite the number of colors against a core grounded in gray, color, texture and shape gave the new collection definition. A combination of keen attention to silhouette and the nurturing of an aesthetic, the options remained limited but excelled in the sense of selling the label’s finer points. Marrying an eastern school of thought with western ideology, relaxed jackets, shirting and trousers were mixed and matched for an endless wardrobe of laid-back style options featuring a distinguished harmony.

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Moschino Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

16 January 2012, written by Carl



Playing Fashion–Moschino’s knack for bold prints and colors collides with a traditional sense of menswear for a penetrating collection. Opening the show with bowler hats as well as suiting and tees printed with cobblestones, the season resonated with a nostalgic London flair. Making the gentleman relevant, the trappings of the distinguished blended with a cheeky use of wardrobe dissection for a new chapter. From patches on pants to exposed jacket seams, Moschino’s man was deconstructed and rebuilt, before emerging with vibrant colors and graffiti prints that lend refined elegance a quirky undertone.

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