Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

22 January 2012, written by Carl



Cool Formalities–Ann Demeulemeester ignited the season’s flame, coloring her black and white palette with electric blue and fiery red. Opting for more edge than romance this time around, formal overcoats were elongated and pieced together with shirting, adorned with printed gradients. Embracing a svelte figure, long tunics appeared as a simple but strong completion to semi-fitted pants and fantastic boots.

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Hermès Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

21 January 2012, written by Carl



L’Essentiel–Retaining a reserved elegance for the fall/winter 2012 season, Hermès creative director Veronique Nichanian kept to a dark color palette in which the fabrications did the talking. With impeccable construction, in a sea of somber suiting and outerwear, pieces like a soft trench from leather created a wow factor when not embraced by sleek trousers as well as carryalls. Introducing hints of velvet and a smoky graphic towards the show’s end, Hermès latest collection played to the house’s conservative nature while also illustrating a natural luxe factor.

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John Galliano Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

20 January 2012, written by Carl



Gangster Lore–Looking to the days of prohibition for the inspiration of his second outing for John Galliano, creative director Bill Gaytten honed in on characters, ranging from gangsters and the law establishment to American sports-stars. Empowered by the stigma of a gangster, the collection was off to a strong start with oversize silhouettes ushering in the double-breasted suit and fine coats of fur. Turning to references by J.C Leyendecker and Norman Rockwell, the baggy trousers of America’s infamous kingpins were closely followed by Gaytten’s notorious band of henchmen. Youthful, cold and belted in for a showdown with the law, the menacing were met with hues of army green, dressing the aviator jacket, a military jacket, complete with epaulettes and other heroic pieces. Caught in the middle of the two factions and bringing the show to a close were John Galliano’s sports heroes, revealing a polished evening wardrobe, sequined and generally more fitted.

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Ports 1961 Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

17 January 2012, written by Carl



Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961′s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.

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Gucci Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

16 January 2012, written by Carl



Fine & Dandy–Gucci creative director Frida Giannini looks to the nineteenth century for the inspiration of her latest collection. Mixing various references, Giannini arrived at what she refers to as Bohemian Grunge. If course with no expense spared, the Gucci man was sent on this path with the ideal trappings for a luxe fall season. The vision of smart simplicity, crewneck sweaters and modest jackets made for the perfect contemporary suiting statement while ornate floral prints created a tapestry of enrichment. Dressing pants and jackets for quite the sartorial debut, Gucci’s prints were just one of the season’s treasured motifs. Working with velvet, silk and brocade, the show was rounded out by a nod at aristocracy, crafting pleated trousers and fitted jackets for the ultimate season of luxury.

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