
Raw Sophisticate–Yohji Yamamoto has always possessed the fine ability of being able to take honest garments and lend them a regal spirit, whether cut from luxurious fabrications or crafted on the mend with anything but riches on the mind. The fall/winter 2012 season is no different. Somehow, Yamamoto creates a romantic figure of his man, dressing down his signature loosely fitted suiting with oversize wraps in muted earth tones. Enjoying a little humor with floppy pipe top hats, a subtle cheeky image is juxtaposed with the somber mood, created by outerwear boasting militaristic insignia. Belonging to the same varied world, elegance is abound with coats baring gold buttons, prim white neck ties and an interesting take on the London banker. Altogether the perfect style palette for the season, Yamamoto once again excels with an aesthetic that once again feels fresh.

Skater Nation–Showing abroad once more, Phillip Lim takes a piece of California with him, looking to skaters for the inspiration of his latest collection. A little rough around the edges for Lim standards, the designer infuses spring’s range with quirk and spontaniety. From baggy shorts and wide silhouettes that taper to a multitude of texture, the Phillip Lim man rekindles his youth with upbeat spring layers. Employing partial gradients and stripes, loosely cut shirting and jackets pave the way for a refreshing season with the potential for more fun than usual. Pair the mood with a delightful juxtaposition of nostalgia with fashion-forward footwear and you have the trappings of a wonderful Phillip Lim presentation.

The Cerruti Brotherhood–Paolo Roversi captures a somber outing from Cerruti for the label’s fall 2011 campaign. A tale of brotherhood and a morning return from a Parisian night out, the campaign stars Axel Miraton, Jakob Hybholt, Mathias Holst, Maxime Bergougnoux and Roman Duvigneau, who are styled by Martine de Menthon with creative direction by Zoran Bosanac.

my second day of this exclusive ‘behind the scenes’ story at the men’s paris fashion week castings for the fashionisto took me from the champs élysées to ‘le marais’, from givenchy to dries van noten, acne and issey miyake …
yesterday had been very intense behing the camera (being my 1st day i could just snap any of the models i saw) but today was more intense in the waiting, looking for new models, expecting with excitement the arrival of some of the most famous ones; indeed all the models go to the same castings and obviously you get to meet them every day, but the purpose of this story is mainly to show the diversity of models you find for the paris shows more than shooting the same guys over and over again …
i had to be patient and lucky to pin to my list of daily trophies the likes of sebastian sauve, adrien sahores, clément chabernaud, matthew hitt, matvey lykov, douglas neitzke, vladimir ivanov, max motta, lucas mascarini, theo hall, jaco van den hoven, daniel bamdad, christian plauche etc, as well as some more new faces such as pierre-harald, jackson, josh tackley, julien sznejderman or dennis jager just to name a few …

If a generous use of color and prints account for anything, Ann Demeulemeester is in high spirits for the fall 2011 season. Armed with beautiful finishes, the Belgian designer peppered her tendency for black with vibrant bolts of red and striking prints. Creating a poignant showing, Demeulemeester’s man reached a new point of elegance with sharp defined edges and a distinct season must-have – gauntlet gloves. Deconstructing the dinner jacket and painting it in brilliant colors such as midnight blue, Demeulemeester also added a fantastic trouser with a whisper of color. An expert at romance, Ann Demeulemeester has managed to elevate her craft to a new level for one of fall’s most refined collections.

Opting for a more serious mood this season than last, Yohji Yamamoto’s fall collection takes a somber turn while also experiencing a poignant art moment. Delivering on expectation, but also pushing the boundaries to provide room for a more thoughtful touch, a uniform for men of all ages comes together with attentive care to form and function. Cut large and dressed by subdued colors besides a shocking jolt of red, the lineup provides a tidy fusion of east and west as the stagnant nature of suiting is dissected into an attractive lifestyle of great ease.

Axel Miraton is a model