
Ready to Layer–Taking their show on the road for the upcoming fall season, Los Angeles-based label Roark showed their latest offering this past February during New York Fashion Week. With a crop of several of the industry’s best faces, Roark presented a ready to layer collection with an undeniable personality that transcends style for the season. From cashmere knits and hooded jackets with intriguing silhouettes to draped fabrics, Roark paints a somber image of city life with a twist of self-awareness.

Native Son puts tradition on an American destination course for fall’s collection entitled The Track. The Train. The Traveler. While the collection’s intent was to capture a fusion of the past, present and future, the ensembles displayed a chaotic mixing of contemporary remnants with a touch of the refined standards. Traveling a clear path save for a couple misplaced accessories, the collection’s strength was evident in tailored jackets and outerwear that struck a smart chord. / Photos by Carl Barnett (The Fashionisto)

Abandoning his trademark skinny suit and staging a lavish feast for fall’s production of a show, Thom Browne took guests on a trip back to colonial days. While models dined on slim pickings, Browne served up a generous helping of coordinated separates with a focus on volume. From puffed sleeves and wide-fitted knickers to trailing trains, the collection brought forth the typical drama tenfold. Although intensive work with silhouettes may have stolen the show, shearling, mohair and wool formed a rich wardrobe of layers, ready to be unpacked for yet another dynamic season from Thom Browne.

Maison Martin Margiela returns to the catwalk with a surprisingly practical ready to wear collection. Putting on a show of real men, relaxed silhouettes curate a tale of low-key tops and trousers, while great attention is paid to the range of outerwear. Piecing together various colors, prints and textures, coats are delivered in various shapes, ranging from simple to complex – perhaps a cue to the new man of Maison Martin Margiela.

Armed with a penchant for fair isle prints and the fashionably awkward ankle hem, Junya Watanabe approaches the fall season with a proper state of mind. Immaculately groomed and pulled together, the Watanabe man is ready for play or business in a highly versatile wardrobe that revolves around the coveted separate. From easy jackets and shirting options to the fundamental trouser, the label dresses their signature workersman-inspired silhouette in an array of festive colors and subdued hues for a treatment of prints as well as contrasting pocket play.

Bond. James Bond. A designer with one of the most vivid imaginations and brilliant sources of inspiration, Jean Paul Gaultier turned to 007 as the muse of his latest collection. A gun toting, modern version of raw sexuality, Gaultier’s constant changing man cleaned up nicely as a figure of elegance, whether supplied with a dashing suit and fishnets or an ensemble derived from sea espionage. Showcasing the practicality of formal wear and other standbys with the allure of adventurous pieces decked in gold, this is one collection enjoyed shaken, not stirred.

Berthold Rothas has walked for Givenchy, Junya Watanabe, Etro, Damir Doma and Ann Demeulemeester. He was featured in an editorial for Vogue Italia June 2010, photographed by Steven Meisel. Born in Germany, Berthold has appeared in Interview, Vanity Fair Italy and V Magazine.