
New York Model Management–Among the usual suspects who have proven to be casting favorites, ranging from Alexander Johansson and Philipp Bierbaum to Charlie France, New York Model Management gets a fresh boost this season with several hot commodities fresh off the runway from Milan and Paris. Racking up shows left and right this month, Andrey Smidl comes out on top as one to watch, followed by new faces Onnys Aho, Todd Taylor and Jordan Postrel.

L’Essentiel–Retaining a reserved elegance for the fall/winter 2012 season, Hermès creative director Veronique Nichanian kept to a dark color palette in which the fabrications did the talking. With impeccable construction, in a sea of somber suiting and outerwear, pieces like a soft trench from leather created a wow factor when not embraced by sleek trousers as well as carryalls. Introducing hints of velvet and a smoky graphic towards the show’s end, Hermès latest collection played to the house’s conservative nature while also illustrating a natural luxe factor.

Combative Fashion–Following an impressive showing for his namesake, Kris Van Assche returned to the runway for his latest collection for Dior Homme. Another inspiring lineup for the season, Van Assche let the focus on tailoring take a backseat with a fully fleshed out motif that emphasized sportswear with a militaristic flair. Hidden under caps and shades, the men of Dior took to the runway with a strong stance on suiting, giving way to more relaxed pieces. Donning low slung trousers and oversize outerwear, cut to maximize powerful movement, garments in an army green gave the season a life dramatically different from previous collections. Playing with shearling, piping and technical fabrics, crisp combative silhouettes were at once fresh, marking a successful overall outing for Dior Homme.

The Workforce–Showing one of his strongest collections to date, Belgian designer Kris Van Assche turned to world affairs to take hold of his latest inspiration. Casting the banker and the working class as his characters of the season, Van Assche took his steadfast penchant for suiting to a new dimension. Evoking a certain elegance that felt fresh, men of a romantic imagination breezed by the catwalk. For an element so frequently referred to, Van Assche’s turn to the workerswear aesthetic prompted a regal quality when blended with his skills in construction and draping. Relaxed trousers, cut to a fine art floated by while more frequented items like the bomber jacket felt decisively urban. Juxtaposed with knits that fell like a dream, in a season with so much focus on suiting, Kris Van Assche’s fall/winter 2012 collection executed the fundamental with such ease and difference.

The Fashion Landscape–In search of the season’s inspiration, Louis Vuitton turns their attention to the life of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez. A convergence of motifs of the seventies and eighties, the fall/winter 2012 collection comes together seamlessly with suiting, much like their peers playing a significant role in the dynamics of the range. Found outside tailored bliss that brushes upon double-breasted coats in camel, duo-toned suiting and pin-striped trousers, the renowned fashion house gravitates towards a more comfortable experience with blankets on sale, price tag and all, being paraded as fantastically draped coats with the Louis Vuitton monogram in plain sight. Taking the fashion capitals by storm, from Paris to Tokyo, the Louis Vuitton collection wraps up nicely with varied influences that blend sartorial genius with creative success.

Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961’s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.

Charlie France started his first season during the Fall/Winter 2009 shows as an exclusive for Jil Sander. Following, he became a Burberry favorite, appearing in campaigns for Burberry Prorsum, Burberry Brit, Burberry Sport and Burberry Black. In Fall/Winter 2010, Charlie France ranked first for walking and opening/closing the most shows.