
State of Transformation–Crafting a minimalist collection for the season, Z Zegna creative director Paul Surridge channeled the 1920’s with an amplified focus on shape. Creating a core of narrow silhouettes for sharp suiting, the collection branched out with oversize outerwear, cut dramatically and featuring large detailing. A testament to impeccable proportions, fall’s lineup weaved its way in between shapes, wide and narrow, creating great contrast and interest. Transforming garments like the shirt jacket, leather made its introduction with rich color and spontaneity, only met by treated mohair. Altogether focused, Surridge’s showing for the fall/winter 2012 season culminated in easy garments given the luxurious makeover in terms of construction, fit and style.

Sartorial Layering–Daniele Alessandrini looks to smart layering for the fall/winter 2012 season. Taking the twinset and reinterpreting it for outerwear, clever jackets remain light-weight but warm with a blanket lining. Subtly mixing prints, an autumn landscape contributes to the image of a man on the go with suiting and casualwear blending together for one cohesive wardrobe. From the strong field jacket to classics like the duffle coat, Daniele Alessandrini remains relevant for the modern man with an offering of tradition and trend.

Total Look–Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier aimed to complete a total look for this season’s collection. Examining proportions and fit from head to toe, the latest range came together as final products, a couple of steps removed from the initial inspiration source. Playing exquisitely with graphic shapes in this aspect, complementary colors melded together as abstract shapes dissected Maier’s alto familiar canvas. However, taking a step into the future, a little rebellion surfaced with treated finishes and a hint of leather, being pieced together for outerwear adornments and eventually the season’s standout trousers.

The Gentleman–Providing the house’s heritage with the focal point this season, Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey scales back on fall/winter 2012’s motif for a onpouring of tailored wears fit for the contemporary gentleman. Gravitating towards gray, suits are toted out with quite the signature accessories, creating a sharp state of mind. From printed gloves to stylish umbrellas, Bailey’s man misses no detail. Complementing the sartorial suit with layered outerwear of varying proportions, a modern touch is showcased alongside room for a spot of color, delivering both a somber sensibility and an upbeat moment.

The Business of Style–Ermenegildo Zegna tackles the wardrobe of the professional for the fall/winter 2012 season. From board meeting to impromptu plane flight, an evening out or even the slopes on vacation, Zegna’s man is ready for any occasion. While suiting dressed in a Prince of Wales print finds a classic streak with strong lines, essentials like the trench are updated with soft leather accents and an oversize silhouette. Honing in on the details, trousers with the cuff turned up reveal a printed lining that reinforces the collection’s fine attention to style. As jackets are prepared for the cold with quilting, chic numbers like a loosely cut cape jacket resonate well with Ermenegildo Zegna’s man who transverses the path between steadfast tradition and playful modernity.

Portraiture–Charlie France, Demy Matzen, Jakob Wiechmann, Jackson Rado, Julius Gerhardt, Nikola Jovanovic, Taras Koltun, Will Westall and Zhao Lei come together for a QVEST story, lensed by Markus Lambert. Tackling collections at the hands of stylist Marcell Naubert (BIGOUDi), the lot are dressed in the latest from Gucci, Kenzo, Paul Smith and other labels for a stark black and white series. / Makeup by Angelik Iffenker (Mariefrance-thavonekham) with hair by Sukram (Mariefrance-thavonekham).

Charlie France started his first season during the Fall/Winter 2009 shows as an exclusive for Jil Sander. Following, he became a Burberry favorite, appearing in campaigns for Burberry Prorsum, Burberry Brit, Burberry Sport and Burberry Black. In Fall/Winter 2010, Charlie France ranked first for walking and opening/closing the most shows.