
Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961’s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.

Sleeper Fashion–Honing in on worldy fashions, Nicole Farhi arms their man with loungewear suitable for long travel. Contrasting a dark color palette against a fun seasonal motif, long silhouettes and a plenitude of fits are showcased. Whether serving up tunic-inspired shirting from the East or novel prints from the tropics, Nicole Farhi dishes a somber but playful affair.

Classic Flair–Italian label Canali goes the way of London for a swinging collection of sartorial proportions. Kicking off the show with a banker chic approach to fashion, pinstriped suiting and overcoats set the tone for a well-informed throwback. Transitioning to a casual change of pace, suede and corduroy made an easy impact with paisley prints joining the foray in the form of jackets and trousers.

The Missoni Way–With her family looking on, Angela Missoni sent her men down the catwalk with an easy air. Layered lightly for the season, subdued autumn colors contributed to relaxed outing, featuring a semi-fitted wardrobe of knitwear, shirting, and outerwear, executed with a subtle hand. The results of heritage at work, Missoni’s signature prints dressed an array of garments that encompassed a walk of leisure, complete with a laissez-faire attitude and bucket hats that gave a distinct feel to the season.

The Don of the Season–Layered in lush knits and grand outerwear, the man of Les Hommes makes his way back to the catwalk. Following a cultured getaway, color, print and volume paint an image of refinement with a daring undertone. While leather garments contribute to a modern hard streak, softness is delivered in the form of sweaters in vibrant hues. Relating the tension of fit and volume, large oversize sleeves taper for a distinct visage. Meanwhile, trousers are tapered and relaxed for the appropriate note to an eclectic collection that seamlessly juxtaposes fine suiting with charming knitwear.

I Love Models Management–Boasting one of Milan’s largest men’s boards, complete with its fill of recognizable talent, casting directors easily have their hands full when it comes to I Love Models Management’s fall/winter 2012 show package. Beginning with classic favorites, I Love brings forth Lenz Von Johnston, Chad White and others, while in the new face department there is Louis Mayhew, Jacob Morton as well as additional talents of interest. Peppered with a recent talent explosion, there is the in-demand Bastiaan van Gaalen or Lanvin dancing man, Milo Spijkers. Bringing up the notables with Brazilian regular Douglas Neitzke or intriguing developing talent Hampus Lück, I Love Models Management has the winning formula to quite the busy fashion week.