agnès b. Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

22 January 2012, written by Carl



The Taming of the Kid–agnès b. was in fine form this season. Executing a more precise collection than seasons past, commercial intent reigned, dialing down the quirky for a delightful outing with youthful fundamentals. Cleaned up for the season, suiting dressed in plaid and autumn hues provided for the season’s strong core. Tailored trousers, sometimes cuffed were pleated and cut at the ankle. Jackets came in the one-button and double-breasted variety with a sharp shirt and tie combo to finish off a look that was more professional. Meanwhile, the antics were not absent with leggings and shorts delivering great charm, when complemented by cropped capes, draped tunics and other bold pieces.

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Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

22 January 2012, written by Carl



Cool Formalities–Ann Demeulemeester ignited the season’s flame, coloring her black and white palette with electric blue and fiery red. Opting for more edge than romance this time around, formal overcoats were elongated and pieced together with shirting, adorned with printed gradients. Embracing a svelte figure, long tunics appeared as a simple but strong completion to semi-fitted pants and fantastic boots.

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Kenzo Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

21 January 2012, written by Carl



The Kenzo Workday–Playing it safe for their debut collection, new Kenzo creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, revealed a season right off the conveyor belt. Decorated in bright, youthful prints, the tailored trappings of the Kenzo man came out to play. From fitted quilted jackets and laid-back sweatshirts to the odd knickknacks, sportswear fueled the collection. Honing in on a relaxed aesthetic that achieved a balance of casual sophistication and novelty, Lim and Leon represented the quirky sentiments of the classic man.

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Yves Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

20 January 2012, written by Carl



Leather’s Gentleman–Crafting a uniform from leather, Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati looked to a sleek new wardrobe to outfit his man for the fall/winter 2012 season. Taking the more fitted road this time around with subtle gestures at draping, the collection morphed from tailored and refined to ensembles infused with a modern edge. Featuring crisp lines, overcoats in charcoal and black balanced out provocative undertakings, ranging from pleated leather trousers to a waistcoat lined with fur. Transitioning to a loose, slouchy moment with long-sleeved shirting that at once felt futuristic, leather again became the prime focus with pure unsaturated pieces ending the show with a youthful flair.

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Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

20 January 2012, written by Carl



Psychedelic Elegance–A keynote of any Dries Van Noten collection, prints really spoke great volumes this season. Taking Oscar Wilde’s dandy and lending him an attitude befitting of music artist Frank Zappa, the season was Van Noten’s canvas. Keeping fall’s inspirations on a tight leash, the backbone of the collection was entrusted to sharp overcoats and pleated trousers, narrow and wide. With fine form at the collection’s heart, next came exciting prints in vivid colors. Dressing sweaters and pants for a psychedelic reemergence, Van Noten no doubt made a loud statement, but also delivered charm subtly with finer print motifs and luxurious fabrications such as velvet driving his effortless elegance home.

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