
The Boys of Premier–Photographed prior to London Fashion Week, creative team Saty + Pratha set their lens on the boys of Premier for a Fashionisto Exclusive. Captured in their street clothes, everyone from new face Bastien Thiry and runway regular Douglas Neitzke to old favorite Marko Brozic make an appearance in fine form.

After Midnight–Taking a dark turn, Topman Design channels a young Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe for their fall/winter 2012 outing. Mixing and meshing rich textures for a rebellious season, a traditional English sensibility is juxtaposed with a relative edge. Alternating between tapered trousers and pants of PVC, Topman’s hero demonstrates a knack for clean dress with a modern spin. Translating Mapplethorpe’s lily print into graphic dressed silk shirting, the finishing touch to a collection of lush knits and structured outerwear is a range of rosaries, crafted by Husam El Odeh.

Earth Matter–Looking to the work of Canadian photographer Edward Burtynsky for inspiration, James Long found a rocky reference after revisiting Quarries. Translating stones and debris into a fantastic collection starting point with fine textures and rich colors, Long delivered a visual treat. Hip and youthful, the range’s first signature marker belonged to low slung trousers, crafted in voluminous fits. Paired with paneled outerwear, many fabrications and prints came together, creating subtle gradients and worn factions. Weaving in a knit like no other, Long’s trademark made a strong impression with delicately executed pieces offering a fierce point of view, whether paired with a tasselled scarf or constructed as a minimal twinset. Altogether, a cool effort for the designer, the collection proved a success, exuding a unique effortless attitude, complemented by excellent continuity and workmanship.

The Taming of the Kid–agnès b. was in fine form this season. Executing a more precise collection than seasons past, commercial intent reigned, dialing down the quirky for a delightful outing with youthful fundamentals. Cleaned up for the season, suiting dressed in plaid and autumn hues provided for the season’s strong core. Tailored trousers, sometimes cuffed were pleated and cut at the ankle. Jackets came in the one-button and double-breasted variety with a sharp shirt and tie combo to finish off a look that was more professional. Meanwhile, the antics were not absent with leggings and shorts delivering great charm, when complemented by cropped capes, draped tunics and other bold pieces.

Cool Formalities–Ann Demeulemeester ignited the season’s flame, coloring her black and white palette with electric blue and fiery red. Opting for more edge than romance this time around, formal overcoats were elongated and pieced together with shirting, adorned with printed gradients. Embracing a svelte figure, long tunics appeared as a simple but strong completion to semi-fitted pants and fantastic boots.

The Kenzo Workday–Playing it safe for their debut collection, new Kenzo creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, revealed a season right off the conveyor belt. Decorated in bright, youthful prints, the tailored trappings of the Kenzo man came out to play. From fitted quilted jackets and laid-back sweatshirts to the odd knickknacks, sportswear fueled the collection. Honing in on a relaxed aesthetic that achieved a balance of casual sophistication and novelty, Lim and Leon represented the quirky sentiments of the classic man.

Douglas Neitzke got his big break when he walked Prada Spring/Summer 2008. He has since walked for Tim Hamilton, Dior Homme, Giuliano Fujiwara, Z Zegna, Dries Van Noten and Lanvin, amongst others. He became the face of Giuliano Fujiwara and Longchamp for Spring/Summer 2010. Douglas was also the face of Adidas SLBR Label Fall/Winter 2009 campaign. This Brazilian has appeared in Dazed & Confused, L’Officiel Hommes Italia, Vogue Hommes Japan, GQ Italia, Man About Town, Contributing Editor, Interview and VMAN.