
Oh No!–A Parisian hotel in shambles serves as the colorful setting for an impromptu photo shoot with Richard Kranzin behind the lens and Major Paris model Hans Hatt, the camera’s one true affection.

Coming Undone–Militaristic references and a sense of rugged elegance come together for Miharayasuhiro’s latest Parisian showing. Working around the idea of strong separates, structured items like the cropped peacoat are contrasted against oversize cargo pants. Accenting a somber sea of dark hues with a large plaid print, varying proportions are melded together. Layered, fine construction gives way to jackets with halved sleeves, camouflage suiting and a tailored sense of sportswear.

Combative Fashion–Following an impressive showing for his namesake, Kris Van Assche returned to the runway for his latest collection for Dior Homme. Another inspiring lineup for the season, Van Assche let the focus on tailoring take a backseat with a fully fleshed out motif that emphasized sportswear with a militaristic flair. Hidden under caps and shades, the men of Dior took to the runway with a strong stance on suiting, giving way to more relaxed pieces. Donning low slung trousers and oversize outerwear, cut to maximize powerful movement, garments in an army green gave the season a life dramatically different from previous collections. Playing with shearling, piping and technical fabrics, crisp combative silhouettes were at once fresh, marking a successful overall outing for Dior Homme.

The Workforce–Showing one of his strongest collections to date, Belgian designer Kris Van Assche turned to world affairs to take hold of his latest inspiration. Casting the banker and the working class as his characters of the season, Van Assche took his steadfast penchant for suiting to a new dimension. Evoking a certain elegance that felt fresh, men of a romantic imagination breezed by the catwalk. For an element so frequently referred to, Van Assche’s turn to the workerswear aesthetic prompted a regal quality when blended with his skills in construction and draping. Relaxed trousers, cut to a fine art floated by while more frequented items like the bomber jacket felt decisively urban. Juxtaposed with knits that fell like a dream, in a season with so much focus on suiting, Kris Van Assche’s fall/winter 2012 collection executed the fundamental with such ease and difference.

Simplicity in Color–First to hit the catwalk for Issey Miyake was a lineup of textured knits and trousers, cut loose with significant pleating. Delivering quite the number of colors against a core grounded in gray, color, texture and shape gave the new collection definition. A combination of keen attention to silhouette and the nurturing of an aesthetic, the options remained limited but excelled in the sense of selling the label’s finer points. Marrying an eastern school of thought with western ideology, relaxed jackets, shirting and trousers were mixed and matched for an endless wardrobe of laid-back style options featuring a distinguished harmony.

Fine & Dandy–Gucci creative director Frida Giannini looks to the nineteenth century for the inspiration of her latest collection. Mixing various references, Giannini arrived at what she refers to as Bohemian Grunge. If course with no expense spared, the Gucci man was sent on this path with the ideal trappings for a luxe fall season. The vision of smart simplicity, crewneck sweaters and modest jackets made for the perfect contemporary suiting statement while ornate floral prints created a tapestry of enrichment. Dressing pants and jackets for quite the sartorial debut, Gucci’s prints were just one of the season’s treasured motifs. Working with velvet, silk and brocade, the show was rounded out by a nod at aristocracy, crafting pleated trousers and fitted jackets for the ultimate season of luxury.
