
Simplicity in Color–First to hit the catwalk for Issey Miyake was a lineup of textured knits and trousers, cut loose with significant pleating. Delivering quite the number of colors against a core grounded in gray, color, texture and shape gave the new collection definition. A combination of keen attention to silhouette and the nurturing of an aesthetic, the options remained limited but excelled in the sense of selling the label’s finer points. Marrying an eastern school of thought with western ideology, relaxed jackets, shirting and trousers were mixed and matched for an endless wardrobe of laid-back style options featuring a distinguished harmony.

Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961’s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.

Sara Cimino captures d’men model Jakob Hybholt behind the scenes at Costume National Homme’s fall/winter 2012 show.

Classic Flair–Italian label Canali goes the way of London for a swinging collection of sartorial proportions. Kicking off the show with a banker chic approach to fashion, pinstriped suiting and overcoats set the tone for a well-informed throwback. Transitioning to a casual change of pace, suede and corduroy made an easy impact with paisley prints joining the foray in the form of jackets and trousers.

High Ambitions–Ready for new heights, designer Kean Etro looked to the mystical Pegasus as the starting point of his latest collection. Marrying the extravagant use of feathers to Etro’s signature prints, the rich affair brought forth quite the avid imagination. Beginning the show with eveningwear, monotone brocade gave way to not only richer prints, but feathers turned out as jackets, scarves, ties and other pieces. From the dark palette of gray and black to a sampling of the warm sun’s rays, Etro explored the color spectrum, even going as far as a fiery red. From overcoat and vest to shoes, the devil was in the details. Masterfully mixing prints and textures, the collection was presented with personality, depth and ultimately the fine qualities of the modern-day gentleman.

Sartorial Layering–Daniele Alessandrini looks to smart layering for the fall/winter 2012 season. Taking the twinset and reinterpreting it for outerwear, clever jackets remain light-weight but warm with a blanket lining. Subtly mixing prints, an autumn landscape contributes to the image of a man on the go with suiting and casualwear blending together for one cohesive wardrobe. From the strong field jacket to classics like the duffle coat, Daniele Alessandrini remains relevant for the modern man with an offering of tradition and trend.

Jakob Hybholt was unstoppable during the spring 2010 season. He walked a staggering number of sixteen shows including Prada, Lanvin, Raf Simons, YSL, Jil Sander and Z Zegna to name a few. Soon after, Jakob was booked to become the face of D&G and Topman for fall 2009. Best known for his boyish charm, this young Danish has appeared in Wallpaper, Metal, 10 Men and Vogue Hommes International. Jakob snagged a Uniqlo campaign and a feature in Burberry catalog for spring 2010 and is continuing to make his way to the top of the industry.