Givenchy Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

21 January 2012, written by Carl



American Splendor–Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci looked to the stars and stripes to dress his uniform for the season. Minotaurs tamed, Givenchy’s men paraded down the runway with decorated hoop in nose. From somber black ensembles, dressed with a version of the American flag to skirts and knits adorned with stars, the season’s theme came loud and strong. Revisiting past collections and borrowing their standout pieces, ranging from leggings to boots, the new factor was limited, but embellishment in full effect. Embracing an earthy brown, Givenchy toiled with mosaic prints when not running its gamble through red, blue and white. Encrusted with studs, sequins and stars, the convergence of sharp tailoring and sportswear was at once the same Givenchy of recent memory that has dominated the hiphop landscape.

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Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

20 January 2012, written by Carl



Psychedelic Elegance–A keynote of any Dries Van Noten collection, prints really spoke great volumes this season. Taking Oscar Wilde’s dandy and lending him an attitude befitting of music artist Frank Zappa, the season was Van Noten’s canvas. Keeping fall’s inspirations on a tight leash, the backbone of the collection was entrusted to sharp overcoats and pleated trousers, narrow and wide. With fine form at the collection’s heart, next came exciting prints in vivid colors. Dressing sweaters and pants for a psychedelic reemergence, Van Noten no doubt made a loud statement, but also delivered charm subtly with finer print motifs and luxurious fabrications such as velvet driving his effortless elegance home.

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Ports 1961 Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

17 January 2012, written by Carl



Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961′s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.

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Canali Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

16 January 2012, written by Carl



Classic Flair–Italian label Canali goes the way of London for a swinging collection of sartorial proportions. Kicking off the show with a banker chic approach to fashion, pinstriped suiting and overcoats set the tone for a well-informed throwback. Transitioning to a casual change of pace, suede and corduroy made an easy impact with paisley prints joining the foray in the form of jackets and trousers.

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Les Hommes Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

15 January 2012, written by Carl



The Don of the Season–Layered in lush knits and grand outerwear, the man of Les Hommes makes his way back to the catwalk. Following a cultured getaway, color, print and volume paint an image of refinement with a daring undertone. While leather garments contribute to a modern hard streak, softness is delivered in the form of sweaters in vibrant hues. Relating the tension of fit and volume, large oversize sleeves taper for a distinct visage. Meanwhile, trousers are tapered and relaxed for the appropriate note to an eclectic collection that seamlessly juxtaposes fine suiting with charming knitwear.

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