
DNA–Impressive to say the least, no face goes unnoticed when it comes to DNA’s choice of boys for each fashion week. At the top of their ranks for this coming fashion week are Miles McMillan and Alexandre Cunha. While Miles is coming into his own with campaigns beginning to follow his success on the runway, Brazilian model Alexandre is having quite the blue chip season that will no doubt follow him on to the catwalk. Meanwhile, new faces Alex Hammond and Chris Petersen will no likely stand out with championed talents Bastiaan Van Gaalen, Alexander Beck and others.

Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961’s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.

Sleeper Fashion–Honing in on worldy fashions, Nicole Farhi arms their man with loungewear suitable for long travel. Contrasting a dark color palette against a fun seasonal motif, long silhouettes and a plenitude of fits are showcased. Whether serving up tunic-inspired shirting from the East or novel prints from the tropics, Nicole Farhi dishes a somber but playful affair.

Style Synergy–Italian label Iceberg calls upon heavy knits for a season where the mood is light and the attitude laid-back. Donning relaxed trousers, the men of Iceberg strolled down the catwalk, layered in lightweight knits and outerwear. From lush speckled sweaters to chunky oversize cardigans, the label showcased a season of convenience. Interchangeable in every sense, the collection carried the same ease from casual daywear to more polished wears, furnished from leather and finished with a tuxedo.

The Don of the Season–Layered in lush knits and grand outerwear, the man of Les Hommes makes his way back to the catwalk. Following a cultured getaway, color, print and volume paint an image of refinement with a daring undertone. While leather garments contribute to a modern hard streak, softness is delivered in the form of sweaters in vibrant hues. Relating the tension of fit and volume, large oversize sleeves taper for a distinct visage. Meanwhile, trousers are tapered and relaxed for the appropriate note to an eclectic collection that seamlessly juxtaposes fine suiting with charming knitwear.

Boys, Boys, Boys–For my second day of this new exclusive ‘Casting Call Diaries’ series for The Fashionisto, I chased models across Paris from Haussmann buildings by the Chicissime Avenue Montaigne and Avenue de L’Opéra to some more industrial photo studios in more popular districts; out of a slightly ambitious program of eight castings I managed to cover six : Dior Homme, Mugler, Louis Vuitton, Arnys, Yohji Yamamoto and Alexis Mabille … This journey proved to be pretty intense behind the camera due to the amount of models who would never miss giving it a chance at castings for such major shows even if they have to carry an umbrella, but granted me to pin to my list of daily trophies the likes of Yuri Pleskun, rising star Bapstiste Radufe, Nicolas Ripoll, Matvey Lykov, Douglas Neitzke, Lyle Lodwick, Corey Baptiste, Paul Boche, Victor Nylander, Alexander Johansson, Juan Manuel Arancibia, Alexander Beck, Julien Chanca etc, some newer faces such as Andrea Bellisario, Timmi Radicke, Julius Gerhardt, Jay or Noma Han for instance and even the freshest first timers you can imagine : Justus Eisfeld (who doesn’t even have a paris agency yet) or Isaac Ekblad (who came to Paris to visit his family and was only discovered today by an agency scout as he was walking in the street !) … Also snapped were designers Romain Kremer (Mugler) and Alexis Mabille … check this space for more to come very soon !

Julien Chanca has been on many major runways since his debut in Spring/Summer 2010. He has walked for Prada, Jil Sander, Gucci, Z Zegna, Issey Miyake, Giuliano Fujiwara, Bottega Veneta and Raf Simons, among others. Julien has appeared in editorials for 160 Hrams, Wound and Metal.